One of the most common mistakes committed by hobbyists is related to root and plant growth. A common mistake is letting carpet plants grow too high, which, when trying to create a dense carpet, can become frustrating and, more often than not, results in the carpet plants being replaced by some typical foreground plants.
Glossostigma elatinoides (Glosso)is a great carpet plant found in New Zealand swamps. Known for its ability to increase and cover an area very well.
Hemianthus callitrichoides (HC Cuba) Is commonly used to grow a carpet area of a planted tank because of its size. Being so small, it creates a nice carpet, but the downside is that it is probably one of the most challenging plants to grow successfully.
Eleocharis parvula ( Dwarf Hairgrass) looks beautiful in a carpeted tank. It is a fast-growing Plant that can require trimming almost every week. One of the main appeals of this particular plant is its ability to look just like a beautiful lawn, transforming any planted aquarium.
To succeed in planting aquarium carpet plants or aquatic plants, in general, use a nutrient-rich substrate. Growing plants without the correct substrate can cause issues with the root system and even affect the rate at which your aquatic plants spread out. Aquarium carpet plants tend to be shorter, and instead of drawing nutrients from the water column, they pull more of their nutrients from the substrate via their roots. All good aquarium carpets have a very compact structure of the roots below. To avoid root compression, mix any powdered substrate with a more coarse soil and add the correct substrate level. Additionally, algae can become a problem in a planted tank when the growth rate is reduced.
Another success element is providing enough co2 and an effective light unit. Using timers, you can easily create a steady and consistent daily pattern for both light and Co2, which makes life easier for you but also encourages continued and healthy growth for your new aquarium carpet and, of course, your entire planted tank. The most popular routine has your CO2 turn on one hour before your lights switch, and then your CO2 stop an hour before your lights go off. Doing this provides your planted aquarium with maximum CO2 during what is known as the 'photo period' (when lights are on).
New horizontal growth is dense. new individual plantlets spread quickly, almost in a grid pattern and fill up space quickly.
Regular maintenance of a fish tank carpet doesn't take up a lot of time. The trimming takes only five minutes, followed by two or three minutes to gather the cuttings.
If they are well-rooted, most carpeting plants are relatively straightforward (and very satisfying) to trim. By employing the help of curved aquascaping scissors, you can effectively shorten and shape any carpet plant. Furthermore, with most carpeting plants, the trimmings will float to the aquarium's surface, making removal easy. A small surface skimmer can help gather the cuttings from your aquarium plants straight from the surface, making it even easier.
Making sure you have the correct aquascaping tools will make your life much easier. The curved scissors are suitable for precision work, especially for small and more delicate carpet plant species such as Hemianthus callitrichoides (HC Cuba). Trimming well-rooted, larger plants such as Cryptocoryne or Staurogyne Repens with regular aquascaping scissors or even your fingertips (if you are gentle) is perfectly ok.
After trimming, your lush green carpet may look a little worn out but be assured, in a healthy aquarium, you will see a lovely carpet requiring trimming yet again within two weeks. Luckily, trimming your carpeting plants does not disturb the substrate, so it is not essential to perform a water change afterwards. Plants such as Eleocharis, Riccia, mosses, and other similar species also benefit from regular trimming. Keeping a close eye on your entire aquascape, looking out for new growth and older leaves, will guide you on where to trim each plant. Don't be afraid to cut your plants. Healthy plants and plants that may have had some damage due to algae will both benefit from trimming. It encourages new growth and will help to keep clean of detritus and other impurities that may promote an algae bloom. You can find out more about that in this BLOG.
Depending on the growth rate and liquid fertilizers routine, it's recommended to trim your carpet plants every 2-4 months. However, if your plants are overgrowing, they naturally tend to become overlapped, creating a lot of layers. When this happens, it is time to trim. If left to grow this way, the top layers will block the light from reaching the lower levels, leading to the lower-level plants perishing. In a new tank, it is recommended to avoid a good trim shortly after planting, especially with a carpeting plant. As long as you have the proper substrate, ph level, water temperature, and light and carbon dioxide levels, your new carpet plant will become a dense carpet in no time.
Remember that maintaining a healthy, thick carpet is not easy. Patience is essential, and time must be given to achieve anything. It is strongly advised that to achieve optimal conditions, carbon dioxide is necessary. The same generally applies to most foreground plants. By nature, they usually are shorter and will also require intense lighting. You can check out our co2 kits here - COMPLETE CO2 SYSTEM.
If you prefer to maintain a low-tech tank, we recommend avoiding carpeting plants and planting smaller plants that are more suited for a low-tech setup. Staurogyne repens and Dwarf Sagittaria are both, in fact, great low-tech carpeting plants. Planting them in a quality nutrient-rich substrate alongside some root tabs and regular liquid fertilizer will produce a nice carpet at a slower growth rate.
If opting for no CO2 injection, pay attention to the light unit capacity to avoid imbalance and unwanted algae growth.
Aquariums are micro-ecosystems, home to many different living organisms co-existing. Finding a balance is the key to a happy and healthy aquarium with many living things. For example, among the livestock in your aquarium live millions of bacteria—some good and also some bad.
Your fish tank inhabitants, such as shrimp, fish and snails, must breathe oxygen dissolved within the water column. While doing this, they also, unfortunately, For this reason, water quality is essential. Cloudy water is a clear indication of an issue with your water quality. Not to mention the foul smell too.
As fishkeepers, we must not forget that we are waterkeepers too. The importance of always maintaining a healthy colony of nitrifying bacteria cannot be stressed enough. A healthy colony will help to fight against algae and protozoa by consuming unwanted nitrates and other waste products produced in the aquarium. When not enough good bacteria are present, the waste produced by fish cannot be broken down efficiently and results in a bacteria bloom. We can see this take place in the form of white-cloudy water.
Cloudy water in a newly set aquarium may indicate that the aquarium has yet to establish the optimum living conditions for the fish. In other words, the nitrogen cycle hasn't been completed. If this is the case, patience is a virtue. Hold off a few days, and the beneficial bacteria will arrive. Avoid any drastic water changes which will slow down the process. Good bacteria ensure there is a balanced ecosystem. Cycling to an aquarium naturally takes around four weeks. Cloudy water in a new aquarium is most commonly caused by too much waste and not enough bacteria. In our BLOG, you can learn about ammonia, nitrites, beneficial bacteria, and the aquarium ecosystem!
Cloudy aquarium water can also appear after the water change. Carrying out this too often and sterilising the filter media destroys the balance and harms the beneficial bacteria development. This hinders the aquarium's ability to process waste elements naturally. This situation provides the ideal environment for protozoa.
In particular, wood that is poorly prepared or too fresh. Also, artificial decorations on which debris accumulates can cause the water to become cloudy. Read more about choosing proper decorations for your aquarium in our recent blog!
The use of an incorrect substrate may be the site of putrefactive processes. Then the tank water becomes darker, tea-like.
Feeding animals too often or in too many amounts. The uneaten food should be treated as fish waste. Excess waste in a fish tank can mean only one thing - terrible water quality. Therefore, we highly recommend reducing the frequency and quantity of food you provide your fish.
Pollution in the aquarium will cause cloudy water. In addition, a neglected substrate with a detritus build-up directly contributes to cloudy water production.
Other reasons include the following:
-Poor water change routine.
-Inadequate filtration. Not enough flow or ineffective filter media.
Adding fish can help to develop the existing bacteria colony and increase their effectiveness in processing the bacteria causing the cloudy water. As mentioned before, allow 4 weeks to pass if cycling your aquarium naturally before adding any livestock.
An established aquarium should perform a 20 to 40% water change weekly or fortnightly. Learn how to perform efficient regular water changes of the aquarium water with our BLOG!
Your aquarium filter must be chosen according to the size of the aquarium. When cleaning the filter itself, only use tank water to clean the filter media. Anything else will destroy the good vital bacteria living within its porous surface. To be an effective filter, it should run 24hr and never be switched off. To support the filter work, consider introducing some species from the cleaning crew. Otos, Amano shrimp or Black molly are excellent for doing this job. Moreover, they'll help you combat the algae growth and have crystal clear water.
Remember to de-sludge the bottom from gravel or coarse sand when performing the water changes. Care is being taken when using plant soil substrates. Replacing fine sands with larger grain sand of 2-4 mm. This will provide the ideal surface for more beneficial bacteria to colonise. The substrate should not reach about 5-7 cm in depth.
Excess food will cause cloudy water in the fish tank. An adult fish only requires feeding once or twice a day. Always ensure the food is eaten within a few minutes. Afterwards, remove the leftover food to prevent unwanted issues.
Hardscape materials such as wood and stone should be checked regularly for any deterioration. This also applies to live plants. If leaves are left to rot, they can develop into problems. Rocks or stones must be checked for dirt accumulating on the surface. If left too long, water chemistry can be affected.
The water colour in the tank may also turn brown or green. A cloudy substrate will cause brownish water. To resolve it, carefully remove the top layer of the substrate while doing a water change. The application of filter wool inside your filter is helpful here.
Although unicellular algae can be responsible for green water, cloudy tank water can also be caused by:
Algae, alongside protozoa, may appear in an immature aquarium deficient in nitrifying bacteria. As the tank water matures, aeration is critical as the algae take up a lot of oxygen. Leaving less for livestock.`
To combat the problem of green water in the aquarium, it is also worth turning off the light or reducing the lighting time. Usually, this will be enough for about three days. After this time, the problem should disappear. You should also remove the tank from the window and change the tank water, taking care of efficient biological filtration. Cartridges to eliminate floating algae growth can also be used in the filter.
Special preparations can be adequate for green, cloudy water, including a particularly powerful skimmer. However, with heavy blooms, it is worth using an ozone generator. In its absence, you can use a hefty dose of activated carbon with an active water flow. Lowering the water to 79 degrees Fahrenheit is also a good idea.
It occurs when tiny undissolved particles in the tank water are too small to stay on the filter sponge. In turn, the constant movement of the water makes it cloudy. Usually, this problem occurs in new fish tanks where, for example, the new gravel has not been rinsed well.
In this case, you can replace all the tank water, which requires a lot of time. Therefore, it is better to insert a particular cartridge made of dense wool into the filter. It will catch floating particles. You can also partially change the water until it becomes clear.
Never introduce fish into the fish tank before it has had time to establish a sizeable colony of beneficial bacteria. This can lead to problems and even the death of your new fish. When fish, The water becomes cloudy with the growth of aerobic bacteria, which causes the amount of oxygen to drop. In this way, they deprive the fish of the chance to breathe freely when the water is silted.
Water testing with aquarium tests will let you know what you are dealing with and when to introduce the fish. After checking water parameters such as NH4 and NO2, it is possible to see when the filter has been touched and when you can start adding fish.
To find out if you have too many fish in your fish tank, check NO3. As much as the test shows nitrogen compounds, you can have as many fish.
In most cases, the aquarium water is cloudy because of natural causes, so it's best to get rid of them by natural methods. It is also worth performing regular water changes and examining the water parameters to keep your fish happy and healthy. They will surely reward you with a fantastic decoration like a well-maintained aquarium.
]]>There are plenty of reasons why we need to catch aquarium fish. We do not do it as a hobby, or a competition like professionals do at lakes or the seaside. Still, we usually catch fish in an aquarium because there is urgency or only when necessary.
This urgency can be, for instance, setting up a new tank, cleaning up the aquarium or moving fish to another aquarium. No matter the reason, it can become quite a challenge for us. Especially in a larger aquarium if we have tiny, fast fish. This resembles a game of cat and mouse, and a simple fish net might not be enough.
Moreover, imagine you were being chased by somebody at your home. Such an uncomfortable situation may lead to some negative consequences. It is crucial to do it as safely as possible to reduce the risks associated with it, and we will establish that in this article.
Before you start catching fish, you need to prepare something. The first thing that must be done is to prepare the place for your fish once you snag them. It is wise to use the same water from the aquarium to avoid problems with water quality. The water parameters should remain similar in terms of temperature, pH etc. It is forbidden to pour the tap water into the bucket and add fish to it. All the chemicals within this water can harm our livestock.
A separate tank is beneficial when it comes to holding newly purchased fish, sick fish that need a peaceful environment to recover or isolating fish species that can't deal with other fish in the aquarium.
Remember to place your new inhabitants in a quarantine tank with identical water conditions to your main tank before reaching their final destination. This will help you to reduce the number of aquarium fish that will need to be caught in the future.
Implementing this tip and running this type of fish tank can help you quickly discover whether your new fish have any diseases, preventing them from passing them onto other aquarium fish. You can quickly treat the fish with specific medications if any illness is detected.
The most common way to catch fish is to use a fish net. It comes in a variety of colours, shapes and sizes. There is a belief that the most effective nets are similar to natural colours, black or green ones. Such a colouration gives a false sense of security to fish. White coloured nets can spook the fish.
The size also matters. Remember that the bigger the net, the easier you will catch the fish. Despite a net being the obvious solution, it is not always the best choice because sometimes you have to manoeuvre the net in fish tanks with dense vegetation and many aquarium decorations. In this case, a smaller net would be more helpful when catching only one fish. Moreover, using a large net can lead to catching some unwanted fish. Additionally, a large net might make it harder to catch only the desired fish if your aquarium is heavily stocked.
The next thing that you might consider doing is removing aquarium decorations if possible. This will simplify the process and help you to avoid obstacles, and fish will have fewer places to hide from the net. You don't have to take everything out. Start by removing the obvious items that stop you from catching fish. Then observe the situation and make changes for the next time. Remember what caused problems and remove them in advance. Don't be afraid to remove devices like the aquarium cover, filter media, heater or the CO2 kit if necessary.
And now, prepare yourself for a long wait. Catching fish is challenging and requires some experience. Place the net slowly in a fish tank, preferably on the bottom of the aquarium's edge. Don't move it for a few minutes to make your fish see that this object is not a threat. Sustained fast movements can cause stress.
A reasonable option is also to catch your fish by luring them. Put some sinking pellet or other food inside the fish net, wait until the fish swims close enough, and gently lift it out of the aquarium. You can also try to catch fish by placing food at the top corner of the tank. Before doing that, place the fish net underneath. When they eat, they become distracted, and it is the best occasion to slowly pull them out.
If this bait does not work, another attempt to catch fish has to be chosen. This one can cost you multiple approaches. Use the fish net to herd the particular fish into a corner and trap him against the wall. There are many videos available on the Internet that show that process.
Take the opportunity: if it is possible to do it at once, perform a water change when you need to catch a fish and wait until the water level drops. The low water level limits escaping options.
As you can see, catching fish can lead to a headache. But don't worry. Here are other ways to catch your fish:
It can be said that this solution doubles the effects. Two nets make everything easier. Once you learn a particular technique, your fish will be grateful and less stressed, and you won't get crazy waiting until the fish enters the fish net.
As the title says, two fish nets are required- a small net and a larger net. Place the large net in a fixed location in the tank. It can be a corner or a place where your desired fish likes to spend time. Of course, keep the net handle in your hand on standby. The second net should herd your fish to the other one. Once your fish reaches the stationary net, close it with a smaller one and lift it to the surface.
Reminder: keep your fish outside the water for a minimal time. Most fish can't breathe the air oxygen. How would you feel if somebody cut your air supply?
Don't worry; we are Just kidding. Doing it with bare hands is almost impossible unless you have a huge fish to move. Nevertheless, trying to catch them in that way may be difficult. Most fish are slippery, and you won't be able to hold them.
In addition to that, some fishes are dangerous too. Imagine holding an electric eel or others that may have sharp teeth with strong jaws and sharp or venomous fins. It's not possible to catch it at all safely.
Some aquarium articles mention a plastic bottle used as a trap. This DIY (do it yourself) is for somebody who does not have access to a net and is used for juveniles.
It works similar to the method with two fish nets. If you do not own a second one, use your hand to direct your fish to the net.
There are a few things that you should avoid in general when it comes to catching fish:
Whichever method you use, bear in mind that this is not a piece of cake unless you are experienced and patient. Try to deal with each one of the fish gently to prevent injury. Some fish are exceptionally delicate, and if you hurt your fish's pectoral fins, there is no cure for that. However, catching fish is sometimes necessary, and it is done to protect them, so in general, they will benefit from this situation.
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Pogostemon stellatus is one great addition to a colourful planted tank. Its thin, elongated, bright green leaves with a purple underside will more than hold its own in the company of such stunning stem plants like Ludwigia ‘Pantanal' and Rotala Macrandra. It is a medium grower and would happily show its colours when all requirements are met. Out of all stem plants, though, this would be one of a few that will immediately show that it is not happy in the tank. The top will start to change colour, and the leaves will begin to wither in a few days once one of its needs is lacking.
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Pogostemon stellatus is one great addition to a colourful planted tank. Its thin, elongated, bright green leaves with a purple underside will more than hold its own in the company of such stunning stem plants like Ludwigia ‘Pantanal' and Rotala Macrandra. It is a medium grower and would happily show its colours when all requirements are met. Out of all stem plants, though, this would be one of a few that will immediately show that it is not happy in the tank. The top will start to change colour, and the leaves will begin to wither in a few days once one of its needs is lacking.
This species originated from Australia and Asia. You can find many variants in the market. Perhaps the most popular would be Pogostemon' Octopus', which, if described, would be a smaller, more compact version of this species.
Pogostemon stellatus requires intense lighting for it to thrive in the tank. This plant will show compact and robust growth if provided with it. Full spectrum lighting is preferred, although all plants should be able to photosynthesize with 6500-7200 k colour temperature. This species refuses to show its beautiful colouration without that hi-lighting. It will display pale, leggy growth without it.
CO2 is a must for Pogostemon stellatus. Like most stem plants that need hi-light to thrive in the tank, this species also requires moderate to heavy CO2 supplementation. Hi-light would mean faster photosynthesis for plants; therefore, they would need more CO2. Growth is much quicker, and the new leaves are more vigorous with more CO2. All plants benefit from CO2 supplementation in the tank, although hi-light or hi-tech plants need it more than most. It becomes essential to their survival in an enclosed set-up like an aquarium.
Place Pogostemon Stellatus in softer water with TDS ranging from 80 to 150. Not like other more sensitive stem plants, though, this plant can tolerate more challenging water. Providing a rich substrate is advisable, although this species should have no problem taking its nutrients from the water column. They benefit significantly from regular dosing of macro and micronutrients. This plant will show pale growth if there is a lack of micronutrients. This plant is often placed in tanks as it is a good indicator that the tank lacks nutrients. Follow a strict dosing schedule for both macro and micro fertilizers.
Keep the water temperature at 22-28 degrees Celsius, a good level for CO2 to dissolve in water and for the plant to grow properly.
Pogostemon stellatus can be used as a background plant due to its size but would generally be considered an accent plant. It will capture the viewer's attention immediately because of its unique form and purple underside. It is one of the more popular plants used in Dutch-style aquascaping. Given its size, this plant would do well in larger tanks.
Trimming this species, especially in Dutch tanks, involves cutting the stem in half, replanting to the top portion and removing the lower part from the substrate. The healthier top half should not have any problem continuing to grow and shooting out new roots. Do not trim like a hedge or shrub. We must give care not to damage individual leaves when cutting.
]]>Providing an aquarium filter that successfully removes these toxic compounds while circulating the aquarium water correctly simultaneously is vital. Installing a suitable aquarium filter reduces weekly maintenance time by about 50%. It ensures stable water parameters, significantly contributing to the overall well-being of everything living in the aquarium.
The process of aquarium water filtration can be divided into three stages.
Mechanical filtration - Your filter removes the solid particles in your aquarium water column. These particles can cause an increase in ammonia levels, not to mention the other nitrogen compounds. These particles include fish waste, decaying leaves from aquatic plants, and other decaying organic debris, such as uneaten food.
Biological filtration - During this stage, the aquarium filter converts ammonia, Nitrate, and other compounds into less toxic substances which are less harmful to your aquarium inhabitants. Additionally, these substances can be utilised by aquatic plants.
Chemical filtration - Your aquarium filter will remove certain chemicals that might be present in the fish tank's water.
Apply these stages correctly, and any aquarium filtration system will create a safe and crystal-clear environment, perfect for showcasing your beautiful aquascape. Let's look at each step in more detail.
Any material placed inside your filter chamber acts as a filter medium. An air pump or power filter will help filter out debris or solid particles as water flows through you. When considering filtration systems, the best filter for your setup should have a reasonable flow rate for the size of your aquarium. Mechanical filtration media is not only used to collect debris and prevent it from returning to your aquarium. It also protects the biological and chemical filters from being covered with decaying organic compounds. For this reason, it should always be placed in front of all other media or filter cartridges. When applied correctly, your aquarium filter can remove up to 75% of the organic compounds before the water travels to the second phase.
Correctly positioning your mechanical filtration will reduce the maintenance and prolong the life of your biological filter.
This filtration phase is versatile and can be anything from a few layers of filter wool to multiple chambers with various sponges. External power filters, or canister filters, are great for mechanical filtration. They are designed to allow the user to use different media types. That being said, the smaller internal power filters offer a selection of filter cartridge options for the same purpose.
The most popular (and most effective) mechanical filters are sponges or wool/filter pads with varying degrees of density. This particular type of material is very effective in acting as a barrier. The surface area allows enough water to flow while blocking solid waste according to density. The beauty of sponges is the wide variety of thicknesses. Coarse filter pads with large pores are perfect for large aquariums with bigger fish as they can handle more significant amounts of solid waste without clogging.
Sponge filter media with a denser and closer network of pores can be placed behind the coarse sponge filter media. This will effectively catch the tiny particles too small to be filtered out by the coarse sponge at the first stage.
Sponge filters work great, especially in smaller aquariums. They function as both biological and mechanical filters. While not as efficient as chemical and biological filtration systems, the tiny pores within the sponge are ideal for beneficial bacteria colonies, compensating for their low capacity to filter bigger waste particles. This filter is perfect for polishing aquarium water if used properly. A bonus when using sponge filters in breeding tanks is that the bacteria that form on the sponge's surface provide a food source for baby fish.
Billions of bacteria live in home aquariums that will eat ammonia and convert it to Nitrite. A different kind of bacteria eats the still toxic Nitrite and converts it to the less toxic Nitrate. This is called the Nitrogen Cycle. Aquarists employ nature's nitrogen cycle to keep their aquarium water clear, healthy and happy.
Biological filtration media houses beneficial bacteria within aquarium filters. You can find nitrifying bacteria living on almost any surface. These bacteria are known as Aerobic types because they need to have oxygen. Because of this, they must be housed in an aquarium area that receives a high level of water flowing through it. The most common place to harbour bacteria like this is inside the aquarium filter. They receive oxygen from the passing water while consuming ammonia and nitrates. The Nitrogen Cycle happens everywhere in freshwater aquariums. Still, it should mostly occur when the water passes through the filtration system.
Ceramic ring filter media is designed to take up less space while offering maximum surface area for bacteria to colonise and get to work. The ceramic ring is designed to allow total water flow through the chamber. Of course, dozens of products are out on the market, so when selecting media, it should be porous and allow the water to flow through.
It generally takes about three weeks or more for beneficial bacteria to establish themselves in a freshwater planted aquarium. It is, therefore, essential for newly planted aquariums to have less livestock during this time. Fluctuations of Ammonia and Nitrite are not uncommon and all part of the usual "cycling" stage. Introducing bacteria into a new aquarium help speed up this process, and there are a lot of products available which are designed for this purpose alone. This can also be achieved by placing filter media from an old, fully established fish tank into the new filter. You can quickly introduce a colony of good bacteria and help your fishtank to develop itself without the cost of purchasing any products.
There are only two effective materials commonly used in aquariums regarding chemical filtration. However, both will absorb almost anything from the water column.
The most popular chemical filtration material is activated carbon. It doesn't come much better when absorbing capacity and availability. Placing some activated carbon in the last chamber of the aquarium filter is always recommended for a newly set up planted aquarium.
Another material is called Synthetic absorbent resins, which are gaining in popularity. One of their best features is handy as they can be recharged, meaning they can still be reused. In contrast, activated carbon must be discarded after a few months.
Other methods involve adding more chemicals into the water to eliminate unwanted compounds. It is always best to attempt a more natural removal process. Adding more chemicals to remove other chemicals creates too many variables.
With time, certain elements would inevitably build up in the aquarium water. The simple solution is regular water changes of 30%-60% of the volume of the aquarium. Doing 100% water change would risk the fish going into shock. Doing less than 30% does not do much to your tank. Learn to love the weekly water changes, which could mean the difference between success and failure.
Sometimes, aquarium filters installed in our fish tank are insufficient. Then the aquarium cleaning-up crew is very welcome. It's worth putting some algae-eating fish or snails to control the algae growth better. Some fish species eat different algae, e.g. young individuals Black Molly are most interested in blue-green algae. Look for other species in our BLOG describing the best animals to control the algae growth.
To sum up, if you're a beginner to planted tanks, understanding the filtration system is the critical factor which affects the entire tank. We hope that if you plan to set up your first planted aquarium, this article helped you understand the aquarium's filtration process.
]]>The natural order of things when you have a fish tank is the appearance and algae growth. This situation is inevitable, and there are no aquariums without algae. It only proves that your fish tank is healthy and well-balanced.
A threat appears if you do not control algae growth, and algae blooms cover the entire aquarium water. But there are some ways to prevent algae overgrowth, and we will establish that in this article.
First of all, aquarium algae occur due to many reasons. Some of them are not as clear as you might think, so it is wise to know them before setting up the fish tank.
We can point out a few examples:
All the factors that were mentioned above, with different intensities, can induce algae overgrowth, so it is recommended to have an eye on pretty much everything :)
A few types of aquarium algae can appear within freshwater aquariums. Here are some examples of them:
Green algae- beneficial algae if kept under control, and almost every tank will experience it at some point.
Blue-green algae- also known as smear algae. They are no true algae but cyanobacteria. It spreads rapidly due to excess nitrate and phosphate in the water. If you keep good water quality, you will not have a problem with this algae. To fight against blue-green algae, some unique treatments will be needed. Erythromycin is quite effective if used properly.
Gravel or silica algae- also known as brown algae, is relatively harmless and easy to remove. It is common among new tanks. It often disappears when the tank matures.
Hair algae are called like that because it feels like wet hair when you take them out of the aquarium. They appear in water with too many nutrients, especially iron-rich ones.
Black beard algae- soft, slippery, and hard to remove. These algae will grow fast in dense patches. This is where its name came from. It looks like a patchy beard on plants, driftwood and any hard surface in your tank. They appear because of low CO2 levels and inconsistent light.
Green water- in other words- algae bloom. Those microscopic algae turn the water colour into green. Since you can't remove them manually, they are formidable opponents. In the case of green water, a UV sterilizer would be helpful.
There are some steps and unique treatments that you can undertake to control algae growth or just to prevent algae from overgrowing.
First of all, you should test water parameters frequently. It is essential to measure levels of chemical processes within your aquarium with particular attention to pH levels. If you are thinking now about purchasing a testing kit, visit our site and find out about a drop checker method where you can also buy it.
Secondly, do not spare money on the filter media. High performing filter is one of the best ways to remove algae from our tanks. A high-quality filter can make a difference also in other things like removing other debris so that this purchase will pay off.
Furthermore, you can serve the algae up for dinner. There are types of algae-eating fish that will be delighted to consume your problem. There are many varieties of algae-eating fish i.g:
most Angelfishes
Siamese algae eaters, also known as siamese flying fox
Otocinclus catfish
Additionally, there are also other algae eaters. We may point to our algae-eating shrimp like i.g. Takashi Amano shrimp or red cherry shrimp.
Last but not least, there are snails like i.g. Ramshorn snails that are perfect algae eaters.
The next thing is the placement of our planted tanks or fish tanks. If algae grow too fast, your aquarium may take too much light. Try to position it a little further to avoid taking direct sunlight. If that is not possible, you can cover your window with a curtain or something like that. Excessive light is probably the main reason for algae overgrowth, so find the right place.
Removing the algae mechanically is also an excellent option to get rid of them.
Firstly, clean your plants if the algae grow on leaves and stems. A solution of 5% bleach may help destroy the extra algae.
Besides, use the algae scrubber to remove them from the aquarium walls and other decorations. You may collect the algae if you see them sitting on a substrate or vacuum the substrate.
Do not forget about performing frequent water changes. You should not change all the water at once. Chlorine that is within tap water is harmful to fish. You can't get rid of all the compounds, such as nitrate, that accumulate in the aquarium water but to keep those levels under control, we dilute them by water changes. If not, too high levels can contribute to algae growth.
As was mentioned before, plants absorb nutrients that algae thrive upon, so it is good to have some plants in your tank. Planted tanks can have fewer problems with algae than fish tanks.
Wherever we find the water and light, there are algae- the natural phenomenon. So it happens in our aquariums, too, whether we want it or not. It is impossible to eliminate algae, but nobody would like that. They can even be beneficial to our ecosystem by being a food source or a producer of oxygen.
However, nobody wants an invasion of algae in a tank because it can spoil the overall look of our aquascape, and because of that, you have to take into account some steps mentioned and described above.
]]>The importance of cyanobacteria in the aquarium and the causes of its occurrence
Cyanobacteria is easy to differentiate from algae. The appearance of blue, green or red slime (in marine aquariums) coating covering wood, substrate, live rock and even live plants usually means only one thing - a cyanobacteria bloom. Their consistency is firm but soft. It disintegrates when touched. It also falls off solid elements (e.g. stones). Trapped within the slime coating are often air bubbles and an unpleasant odour. Cyanosis is a danger to the health and even the life of fish. It can also lower the oxygen content in water, which leads to hypoxia in the animals living in it. It is currently unconfirmed whether cyanobacteria inhabiting the aquarium produce any toxins. However, trying to manually remove cyanobacteria is can cause water discolouring and a notably unpleasant smell.
Leading causes of cyanobacteria in a planted aquarium
Poor water circulation - Dead spots in the aquarium water allows fish waste and excess nutrients (food) to gather. This is a breeding ground for bacterial growth.
Low oxygen levels and inadequate filtration prevent the beneficial nitrifying bacteria from doing their job. Always make sure you install a filtration system that is correct for the size of the aquarium. Regular maintenance is essential.
Lack of nutrients and no fertilization. The absence of a quality fertilizer in a planted tank causes a nitrogen deficiency. This effectively starves plants, causing them to rot away. This problem not only causes a Cyanobacteria bloom but can invite other problems like brown algae.
An imbalance between nitrogen and phosphorus when the first element is too little or similar to the second. While other macronutrients play a role, they are considered secondary.
Frequent water changes - by adding too much fresh water, we can remove more of the good bacteria which can cause a mature aquarium to crash and begin to cycle again. Typically, most freshwater aquariums require a 20/30% water change every 1-3 weeks. Depending on your fish tank livestock, a different routine could be required but in general, this is the normal suggestion.
How to remove cyanobacteria from planted tanks?
A Cyanobacteria bloom or 'Cyano bloom' in a planted aquarium is a big problem, so effective control should involve a combination of several methods. In aquarium shops, more specialized preparations for cyanobacteria and diatoms are available. While these "cures" take some time (up to 10 days), they do guarantee results. Look out for products called 'Blue-green slime remover' if chemical treatment is your chosen route to resolve the issue.
Alternatively, the 'black-out technique can be used. This is when the aquarium is contained in darkness for a few days. During this time, additional oxygen is advised. , but CO2 and fertilization should not be added. The lack of light will not harm the plants but can eliminate cyanobacteria or at the very least, support chemical treatment. As a preventative measure, UV lamps are used (in practice, they are better for algae). If you have a sand substrate, introduce livestock that likes to dig in it (increasing circulation and aeration). While many algae-eating snails can be kept in an aquarium, there are no volunteers for cyanobacteria other than ramshorn snails.
Algae eaters such as Amano shrimp or Ottocinclus are great at keeping on top of most algae, especially on the leaves of rooted plants. However, adding them to your planted aquarium in the hope that they will assist in dealing with a cyanobacteria bloom. As far as algae eaters go, the only one that has shown an interest in eating this green slime are Ramshorn snails. They do eat Cyanobacteria however, due to their size, you would need a lot to deal with a full-on cyanobacteria bloom.
As in many other situations, the saying "prevention is better than cure" works best for cyanobacteria. However, when harmful organisms appear, it is recommended to use several methods of combating them simultaneously. While chemistry is usually used as a last resort, it really is the best method of removing such problematic growth.
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In nature, the plants that we view as aquatic plants most likely do not live 100% beneath the water surface. While some plants do, it is much more common to find our favourite aquatic plants growing on land along the shoreline and shallow areas of lakes, rivers, streams and shallow ponds while also being exposed to natural sunlight, collecting nutrients via their root systems and substrate. Many of these locations will receive seasonal flooding, forcing the plants into a fully aquatic setting for short periods. However, the majority of the year will see only their roots set underwater.
This is very common in low flood plains, where plants will survive several months below the water's surface. While there are undoubtedly benefits to being underwater, this setting exposes plants to the many pollutants in natural waterways. We must acknowledge that things are different in nature compared to the closed environment of an aquarium. It is not practical for us to change the water level all the time, so we must choose our plant species according to the layout and style of the aquarium we are planning.
The main difference between these two categories can easily be explained. Emergent plants grow above the surface of the water, while submerged plants grow within the water column below the water surface. There is usually a difference in sale price too. It is a costly process to create conditions suitable for growing submerged plants. Growing aquarium plants emerged is more cost-effective and quicker!
"Plants grown above water do not adapt to the aquarium as good as plants that are grown underwater."
Usually, when an aquatic plant from an emergent cultivation is placed underwater. Unlike submerged vegetation, emergent aquatic plants original leaves (produced in terrestrial conditions) will melt. Without understanding this stage of the plant's adaptation to the new environment, many aquarists quickly assume the erosion of leaves indicates their new plants have failed.
However, it is worth waiting for this situation to play out. Patience is an aquascapers secret weapon.
This process takes time, and we should always expect some leaves to melt away. New leaves will appear as long as we provide food and the aquatic plants are well rooted in the soil. The newly released underwater leaves often contrast with the original leaves with slightly different shapes and colours. Strangely, when plants more used to growing on dry land above the water surface become submerged, form new leaves that are more rounded than before. The fresh leaves are entirely normal and all part of the process of adapting.
Plants with long stems (Stem plants such as Rotala, Ludwigia, Limnophila, Myriophyllum) adapt to underwater conditions.
Plants of the genus Hygrophila, Alternanthera adapt longer than the above. It will lose leaves close to the substrate when in a low light penetration habitat.
In most cases, plants of the genus Cryptocoryne (which applies to both emergent and submerged plants) will lose their leaves (Also known as 'Cryptocoryne Disease'). It would help if you cut the diseased leaves, leaving only the rhizome behind - in the next few days, new plant growth will begin to form, fully adapted to the conditions in the aquarium.
Plants of the genus Echinodorus can quickly adapt to the aquarium habitat depending on the species (colourful artificial hybrid strains adapt more difficult). Most often, the adaption process begins with a mesh on the surface of the leaves and, ultimately, the death of the entire leaf blade. In the next few days, new plant growth appears from the rosette, adapted to the conditions in the aquarium.
Plants of the genus Microsorum, Anubias - adapt to the aquarium without any problems. This is because their native habitat is the banks of rivers, streams and wetlands.
The information above is relevant to aquariums suitable for each plant species. Adequate lighting power (minimum 0.4W / l for smaller aquariums), soft-medium hard water and pH 6.5-8, fertile soil and carbon dioxide. When adding new emergent plants to the aquarium, the provision of CO2 will also significantly increase your plant's recovery time. We must consider that all plants initially grown in emergent conditions have had access to unlimited atmospheric Carbon Dioxide. It only makes sense to provide them with additional CO2 to compensate for this new habitat.
They grow under natural light, which promotes a fast metabolism, and appropriate levels of enzymes and plant hormones, not limited by the availability of nutrients in the water. This environment builds vigorous, resilient plants capable of being successfully introduced to the aquarium environment.
Plants growing above the water surface have stronger stems, which are very beneficial when transporting plants from the supplier to the shop and from the shop to your aquarium.
They have a considerable amount of stored nutrients, which comes in handy while adapting to their new underwater habitat.
They are free from waterborne diseases and parasites. No more pest snails hitchhiking their way into your aquarium.
Free of hard-to-remove algae spores and cyanobacteria. Ultimately algae-free plants, leaving the algae battle ball in your court. You should see no unwanted algae in the aquarium if you provide the correct care.
Impatience: Removing plants when their old leaves die off. Always allow time for the new aquatic leaves to form.
Lack of nutrients: Placing new aquarium plants in sterile substrates like plain gravel will not be sufficient enough to sustain the new growth during the transitional period.
Poor Filtration: Inadequate filtration can cause a build-up of unwanted materials and invites algae to form.
Inadequate lighting: Plants need light. Strong, consistent lighting periods are essential to photosynthesis, which is vital to all plants' growth. Research your plant's requirements and use a timer to provide the relevant length and strength of light (photoperiod)
Lack of CO2: Plants require carbon dioxide. While the fish generate a small amount in your aquarium, this will not be sufficient for most aquarium plants. The provision of co2 will significantly benefit the plants during their transitional period.
Irregular water changes: A lack of regular water changes harms aquariums, but when adding new plants, it is essential to do weekly water changes to maintain the optimum conditions.
Incorrect water parameters: Just like fish, they require specific conditions. Ph, temperature and hardness are all elements we should aim for to give transitional plants all the tools they need to thrive.
Maintaining an aquarium with both submerged and emergent growth is possible. The modern aquascaper can benefit from access to high-quality substrates, nutrients, lights, and CO2 injection. So, with a bit of forward-thinking, you can enjoy a beautiful display with all different types of plants.
Some species even produce flowers once established, which can be highly satisfying. Why not try creating a shallow pond-style aquascape that combines both submerged and emerged growth. This design pulls together both categories to create a very natural display.
]]>The round leaves of the Lobelia Cardinalis “Mini: '' would serve as a perfect accent to a Nature Style tank filled with Rotalas and other oval-shaped leafed plants. Its light green color and low growth helps it to stand out from the rest of the crowd as well. Like the original, the large Lobelia Cardinalis, this version is relatively easy to grow and establish in the aquascape.
It would form a low-lying bush once fully established; Lobelia's growth habits would pretty much be comparable to Althernanthera Reinickii’s wherein it is more interested in sending outside shoots than reaching the water’s surface.
The plant definitely appreciates a high light aquarium. It requires higher intensity for it to send outside shoots and stems. Its growth is much more compact if given these conditions. If put in low light conditions, the plant will struggle and would try to reach the surface of the water. The growth will become leggy and thin.
Like most plants that thrive under high light, Lobelia Cardinalis “Mini” will definitely require CO2 supplementation. It is not that difficult to keep though so long as the guidelines are followed. In an aquarium full of CO2 and light demanding plants it would probably be the last to show the aquarium owner that it is not thriving well. It can tolerate a certain amount of neglect for a long time.
Keep this plant in neutral PH water. This plant could tolerate higher PH though and definitely tolerate high TDS but ideal range is between 80-150PPM. CO2 saturation is maximum in cooler waters so it is best to place the plant in waters with temperatures ranging from 20-28 degrees Celsius. It can go without dosing for a long time but it is best to follow a regulator dosing schedule to keep it looking at its peak.
This plant is definitely used as accents or as low-lying shrubs on a scape. Plant in large clumps for that effect. Be careful not to plant too densely. Too dense would mean light will not be able to penetrate lower leaves. If light cannot reach those, they will soon become yellow and start to die off or melt, leaving healthy looking top portions but bare at the bottom.
Lobelia Cardinalis “Mini” is compact in growth and it remains low in the aquarium so trimming is not usually much of a problem. When trimming, though care must be given not to damage individual leaves. Cut each plant carefully. Trimming usually involves removing the side stems or shoots and leaving the main plant untrimmed.
It may sound like an obvious question but aquascaping means different things to different people. Do you aquascape purely just to create underwater balance with your livestock or is your aim to create contrast in your aquariums? Read on and discover why the aquascaping hobby has become so important to people of all hobby backgrounds.
]]>It may sound like an obvious question but aquascaping means different things to different people. Do you aquascape purely just to create underwater balance with your livestock or is your aim to create contrast in your aquariums? Read on and discover why the aquascaping hobby has become so important to people of all hobby backgrounds.
The obsession known as aquascaping is the term applied to the process of creating underwater displays by using natural materials like wood, plants and rocks. Although more popular among planted tank enthusiasts, the term aquascaping also refers to the saltwater aquarium side of the community too.
Most aquariums require an aquascape on some level and while our priority should remain the well-being of our fish, shrimp or even corals (if you have a reef aquarium), there is nothing to stop us from getting creative and with a little inspiration from nature itself, we can create focal points, shape and still have enough room for our livestock to have a healthy and natural-looking home.
Let us dive into the main focus areas of this wonderful addiction. Which area do you relate to the most?
Everybody starts somewhere, nobody is an instant expert. For most of us, our first aquascape is the most challenging one. It is during this first scape that we learn the basics like finding the right balance between lighting, CO2 and nutrients. There is a saying that resonates very well with the aquascaping community which is "every day is a school day". Aquascaping demands we learn from experience, but also from other aquascapers. When someone starts out, they may have a little knowledge but by sharing with others, it doesn't take long to fall in love with the world of aquatic plants.
For many aquascaper, the continued learning and new challenges are what drive their creativity, keeping them obsessed with the world of aquarium plants. When we first begin to experiment with live aquarium plants, it can feel very overwhelming and a little bit like trial and error, but after some time, we learn the different characteristics of each species and before long, we are enjoying healthy plant growth and thoughts of a new tank begin to creep in.
While some of us will enjoy maintaining a single aquarium for a long time, there are many of us who simply cannot contain our love of aquascaping to a single aquarium. This is known as "multiple tank syndrome" and is fairly common now that there are so many smaller tanks on the market. There are just so many plants, rocks and wood out there that it is too tempting for us not to keep setting up new aquariums.
Aquariums have been installed in people's homes for many years now and have been used as a focal point in a variety of settings. It does not matter if you set up a reef tank filled with live rock and spa corals or install larger aquariums filled with plants, plant or coral placement, live rock, small rocks, larger rocks or wood layouts, each is an example of 'aquascaping' and provide the fish keeper with an experience.
As people, we all have different likes and preferences so it is no surprise that as fishkeepers or aquarists, we all have different ideas and methods of enjoying planted aquariums. There are a variety of niche interests associated with aquascaping that many people find they are drawn to in particular.
Aquarium water - Any fishkeeper must consider themselves 'water keepers before becoming a fishkeeper. First identifying the correct water parameters and then maintaining the water quality is almost an art form in its own right and plays a crucial role in the success of the aquarium. Water flow, temperature and sometimes even the amount of empty space available in the water column are very important.
Filtration - Another element of this obsession that can also relate to general fishkeeping. When related to aquascaping filtration is an interesting subject. The choice of filter media is important. To use activated carbon or not (see this blog and form your own opinion. here). We have biological filtration, mechanical filtration and not to forget, no filtration (learn about these specialist aquariums here). Ultimately the aim is to have a nice clear water column and no dead spots. This subject is popular among many aquascapers. If you ask for aquascaping tips I'm sure that the subject of filtration will
Hardscape - This is an area of the hobby that personally fascinates me. As a child, and I'm sure many of you can relate to this, I collected stones and rocks that I found interesting. As an aquascaper, this allows me to indulge this fascination of mine in the search for interesting rocks to use in new layouts. Whether we plan rock islands with Anubias creeping out the crevises or a simple rock pile to create height for specific designs, your choice of rocks is important.
Rocks can be used to create open space by holding back certain plants and much more. Rocks are the skeleton of all aquascapes and as such, many aquascapes find they spend more time selecting rocks than anything else.
In the saltwater aquarium side of the hobby, rocks are even more important. The choice to use dry rock or live rock can be a difficult one. Depending on how much thought is going into the aquascape, dry rock may be better. Being able to create ledges and towers with perfect spots for coral placement and even creating small plugs for coral frags is easier when using dry rocks.
Lighting - Aquarium light is one of the subjects that, over the years has become less of a science and more of a pleasure to indulge in. There was a time when achieving the best light for your plants would require calculating all kinds of different light readings. Luckily, the modern aquascaper can benefit from LED light units with preprogrammed light settings, timers and a multitude of aesthetically appealing designs. That being said, when it comes to reef tanks, good lighting has many benefits. Providing the correct light is vital for a successful reef tank especially when SPS corals require specific lights to grow correctly.
Aquascapers can access light units that have preset options for specific plant species. Each set is designed to bring the best colour and growth rate with minimum input from the aquascaper.
Plants - Last but by no means least, aquatic plants. Today aquascapers have a wide range of species to choose from. Do you like to use an established plant for an instant aquascape display or do you prefer to use in-vitro plants and allow them to grow into your aquascape over time? With so many different colours, textures and sizes of plants out there, it's no surprise to find aquascapes really fascinated by them. After all, plants are the biggest part of aquascaping.
So after reading all the different areas and potential obsessions within the aquascaping hobby, where does your heart belong? We would love to know what it is that draws you towards creating underwater gardens or in a saltwater aquariums case, the perfect reef?
Freshwater shrimp are perfect creatures to any nature aquarium with equally peaceful inhabitants. One of the shrimp species you can have in your own tank is blue velvet shrimp. This creature will definitely bring the contrast to your shrimp tank.
]]>This shrimp species is a morph of the red cherry shrimp (Neocaridina davidi) which occurs in India and Taiwan. The blue velvet shrimp do not occur in nature.
Fancy having this blue shrimp in your own tank? See the blue velvet shrimp care requirements and prepare you aquarium for the new star!
Neocaridina Blue Velvet Shrimps are shrimps recommended for beginner shrimp enthusiasts as well as for experienced shrimp keepers. They are characterized by a blue / navy blue - sometimes slightly translucent - coloration on the entire body of the shrimp. Blue velvet shrimp lifespan is about 1-2 years in good water parameters. Recommended minimum tank size is 20l.
Apart from uncommon appearance of blue velvet shrimp, this shrimp is a perfect cleaner when it comes to algae bloom! They are also helpful when any bio film appears on plants.
Shrimps are generally sensitive creatures although shrimp from Neocaridina family are considered as easier to keep. Therefore maintaining stable water parameters is essential. For this shrimp species pH 6,8 - 7,8 is acceptable, water temperature 20-26 degrees Celsius. GH 8-20 and KH >2.
Blue velvet shrimp will get along with other dwarf shrimp but it's recommended not to combine them with shrimp from the same family Neocaridina. Also blue velvet shrimp can be kept with small aquarium fish or even nano fish depending on the tank size.
This beautiful freshwater species eat algae, eagerly eat steamed nettle leaves, mulberries, and specialized foods.
Blue velvet shrimp is shrimpastic! If you are just getting started with shrimps, this species is a great choice!
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Glass covers play many roles which are very functional to run a fish tank.
They protect against water temperature fluctuations which is very useful in case of sensitive fish species.
Cover helps to reduce evaporation of aquarium water and increased humidity in the room. This contributes specially to aquariums with large water surface.
Glass lids prevent fish from jumping out of the aquarium and thus protect them against death.
Who have kids and cats knows what this means :)
Having a cover surely helps to limit the contamination falling to the fish tank from the outside such as cat hair or dust.
It is a good place to install lighting and discreet organization of cabling from all devices working in the aquarium and requiring a permanent connection to electricity.
We know that not all of the arguments above are particularly important for many hobbyists. And it's absolutely fine! After all, it's your personal choice whether to have a cover or not.
It is also commonly accepted that the cover is necessary for large, several hundred-liter tanks. From them, the water will evaporate very intensively and quickly, providing high humidity in the room and creating the risk of fungus or mold on the wall around the aquarium, especially in old buildings and rooms without good ventilation. The owners of smaller aquariums have more comfort and freedom of action here. Moreover, tanks with intense evaporation are more likely to have problems with water parameters.
Again, everything depends on personal choices. However, open aquariums are more aesthetic and compose better to the surroundings. When having live plants, you have to be aware that plants can grow above the water surface which is a great element of arrangement. Moreover, they also make it possible to admire the crystalline water surface and provide a slightly closer contact with nature reflected in the aquarium.
While having an open tank you must be aware that water evaporates quicker than from covered tank. This means that during water changes you need also to refill the difference, usually visible to the naked eye (sediment on the glass). Also, active and dynamic fish are more likely to jump from the open aquariums.
It is worth resigning from fish that swim near the surface and have a tendency to pop out (e.g. cichlids), and it is definitely not worth putting too much stock in the tank, because then the risk of stress increases and the fish will want to jump out as part of the escape.
There is another idea if standard glass lids are not possible to install on the existing aquarium. Some use covers made of plexi. However, this method is found as short-lasting. Such a plastic lid deforms over time under the influence of heat from lighting and loses its transparency.
To sum up, the choice whether the cover is needed or not remains in hobbyist's hands. Everything depends on the stocking and external factors. Nevertheless, having the aquarium lid is very useful when we have jumpy fish and small children.
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The technique in growing pearlweed lies in the amount of light used in growing it. It can grow with almost any amount of lighting but will best display its full potential when grown in mid lighting. Grow it under lesser light and it will start to display a somewhat lanky and weak growth. Grow it in too much light and it will soon demand for more CO2 like any other plant. In a high light, high CO2 environment though pearlweed will start to spread and crawl sideways instead of growing up. It spreads fast. Under these conditions the planted tank will then have a nice, thick carpet or a big round bush in just a couple of months’ time.
Any CO2 supplementation is always welcomed by any aquatic plants, especially by the ones grown under high light conditions. Pearlweed is no exception. It will almost double its growth rate with CO2 and if provided a medium lit tank and no CO2 supplementation pearlweed is perfectly content growing at a much slower pace.
Pearlweed can thrive under a broad range of conditions. Like other aquatic plants though, keep the water hardness from soft to medium hard. A TDS of 120-180 is still tolerable for pearlweed. There is no doubt that pearlweed will be able to grow in slightly harder water but it would require CO2 supplementation then.
As mentioned, pearlweed is a versatile plant. You can grow it as a carpeting plant. You can grow it as a regular stem plant for background or you can shape it as a bush or shrub for midground. It can also be incorporated with other lush green carpeting plants to have that very natural meadow effect on the planted tank.
Pearlweed is a prolific grower. It has the ability to quickly recover from a heavy trimming. Should pearlweed be grown into a carpet, an interval of 3 weeks between trimmings is recommended given the plant is already growing fast.
As you can see, pearlweed can be used for various arrangement purposes. Everything depends on the aquascaper! Share your beautiful scapes with pearlweed by posting it in Social Media with #topdowntuesday! The Aquascaping Audience will surely appreciate its indisputable beauty!
]]>Gas bubble disease is most common in heavily lit aquariums during algae blooms. The reason is oxygen saturation during the day, which may exceed the optimal value up to four times, followed by a rapid decrease in its content at night. A temporary saturation of water with oxygen causes the fish's blood to become saturated with this gas. As the pressure equalizes between the water and air, the pressure of this gas equalizes between the blood of the fish and the water that flows through its gills. During this process, gas bubbles close the blood vessels of the fish and lead to ischemia of some organs, which may result in necrosis. Gas bubble disease can also occur when the fish are released into a tank with stagnant water coming directly from the water supply. Sometimes it also occurs in fish freshly moved from other tanks or transported under inappropriate conditions.
Another factor that can lead to it is the transport of fish in artificially oxygenated plastic bags. The resulting increase in gas pressure causes an increase in pressure in the fish circulatory system and the formation of bubbles that can cause blockages in the blood vessels.
In the first stage of the disease, the fish swim restlessly just below the water surface, they are clearly restless and very skittish. Sometimes it is accompanied by trembling of the fins. They become listless after a while. If gas accumulates in the swim bladder or digestive tract, the fish are bloated and taken to the surface. In large fish, you can see tiny bubbles of gas in the blood vessels of the fins and gills quite easily. In some cases, cloudy eyes or ragged fins can also be observed.
After noticing symptoms of gas bubble disease, as soon as possible transfer the fish to the tank with the optimal oxygen concentration, which is 10-15 mg / l. If this is not possible, reduce the number of plants in the aquarium and apply strong water aeration using cubes with coarse pores (large bubbles). It is also good to limit the intense lighting. The main aquarium should be left to equalize the pressure between the atmospheric air and the saturated gases in the water. Within a few days, all symptoms of gas sickness should disappear in our patients, unless the changes in the body are too advanced (e.g. damage to the gills). Then we euthanize such individuals. After this period, we can move the fish back to the main aquarium and use appropriate vitamin preparations and water treatment preparations to strengthen their immune system
Prevention of bubble gas disease is to control the amount of oxygen in the water. A skilled aquarist will only need to observe fish and water, but there are also suitable tests available in the aquarium trade. The correct location of the aquarium is also important. It should not be placed near a window or in a place of direct sunlight. You should also follow the principle of topping up the water only with standing water and use regular aeration. Moreover, avoid sudden changes in water temperature.
If your aquarium fish swim restlessly near to the water surface, be aware that it can be the symptom of gas bubble disease. Unfortunately, recognizing fish diseases is not an easy task because many of them have very similar signs at the beginning. That's why education and a lot of reading is important because the recognition can be easier then.
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The source of fish diseases is usually introducing newly purchased fish into the main aquarium. Symptoms of the disease are usually not visible at the beginning but often after 2-3 weeks. And then almost nobody suspects that the cause is the new fish introduced to the fish tank a few weeks ago. If the new fish already infected the rest, the quarantine must be done anyway, otherwise we can lose the whole stocking. That's why it's worth to have a spare tank which may be used as the quarantine tank for new, hospital tank for sick fish or even the breeding tank if necessary.
Newly purchased fish should be quarantined for about 2-3 weeks before introducing them into the main tank. During the quarantine period, they should be carefully observed if the don't show any disturbing signs such as rubbing against the objects. Remember that the water conditions should be very similar to the water parameters of the water in which the new fish was transported. Of course, it should be introduced to the quarantine tank gradually because we don't want it to get shocked because of the temperature or differing pH. The water should contain about 70% of the water from the main tank and 30% of fresh water. This will help the new fish to acclimatize to the new environment without great shock in terms of the pathogens already present in the water. And of course the quarantine tank must be fully cycled. Read more about the nitrogen cycle in our BLOG.
Live plants can be the source of unwelcome parasites as well. Usually they are also the cause of the pest snails plague. To avoid struggling with them in the main display, always examine them visually to detect snails or their eggs. It is best to store a new plant in any container filled with demineralized water for a minimum of one week before placing a new plant in the main tank. Before that, you can (depending on the delicacy of the plant) rinse it with a disinfectant, e.g. chloramine or potassium permanganate. The risk of introducing unwelcome guests to the tank is lower when buying aquatic plants from in vitro cultivation. They are grown in sterile conditions which means that they are much healthier and free from pests.
Newly purchased snails should be quarantined as well. They may be the carriers of infections that are very dangerous to fish, for example ich. The quarantine should last at least a week. For this purpose, a small glass vessel or tank can be used.
Quarantine fish as soon as you can see any uncommon behavior such us rubbing against different objects, changes in their appearance or poor appetite. The last thing any aquarium owner wants is the chain reaction. Especially that in case of fish, different symptoms of different diseases develop differently in different species. Infected fish should be moved to the hospital tank. The hospital tank works best without any substrate or decorations because it's easier to keep it tidy and therefore maintain good water quality. During the quarantine period, closely observe factors such as excrement, appetite, behavior, fin and skin condition.
Also if any infection in the main tank was detected, a big water change should be done in the main aquarium. The sick fish in the quarantine tank should be carefully observed and if the symptoms are not visible anymore for a few weeks, it can be moved back to the main aquarium. The water from the hospital tank should not be poured into the main display and the aquarium glass and equipment should be disinfected before starting another treatment session.
As mentioned before, the quarantine tank works best without any substrate, decorations or plants. Therefore it's easier to control the water quality and take out excrement and uneaten food. Moreover the observation is facilitated because due to the lack of hiding places, you can keep your eye on the sick fish constantly.
Secondly, the quarantine tank should be equipped with an effective filter compatible with the size of the tank. The type of the filer is not important here.
Test kits, thermometer and heater will be helpful as well to maintain stable water parameters. It's important in particular in case of fish with already weakened immune system (due to transport or disease).
And last but not least, any tools used for quarantine tanks maintenance should NOT be used in the main display tank. They should be disinfected every time after contact with the tank water from the quarantine tank.
If you don't want to introduce any unwelcome infectious disease to your display tank, quarantine new fish for about 3 weeks. In case of plants, observe them and take off any pests from the leaves. If possible, buy fish, snails and plants from reliable sources and avoid live food. Remember about regular water changes. Do not hesitate to move weird-behaving fish to the separate tank before more fish get infected.
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An aquarium tank is not only a place where you can breed fish. The aquarium can also be an interesting addition to interior design. Blended into a specially prepared space, it becomes a part of the room in which it is located. It can therefore be a very interesting and unique decorative element or a source of relaxation, mental relaxation and a perfect escape from everyday problems, becoming a part of nature that soothes the senses. If you want your fish tank to look nice, don't be afraid of adding decorations!
It would seem that the decorations are designed to increase the attractiveness of the aquarium and thus make the place in which it stands eye-catching and decorate the interior. However, aquarium decorations have a much wider function because they are responsible for providing the fish with a place to hide or a place to spawn.
But that's not all, because the use of aquarium decorations is also a good way to diversify the substrate. In order for everything to fit together and form a coherent concept, a well-thought-out arrangement of the freshwater tank is extremely important here, which we can face ourselves or use the help of experienced professionals.
It must be admitted that the manufacturers of aquarium decorations rose to the occasion, because the range of available solutions is impressive. We have a choice of various custom-made aquarium decorations, so that each of us can find something suitable for ourselves - from natural decorations, to artificial ones, ready to be put in the water, as well as those that require additional preparation.
We are fans of nature aquariums that's why we recommend to use decorations proposed by Mother Nature. These decorations can be surely use in different styles of nature aquariums or biotope aquariums. Of course, everything depends on personal choice.
Natural decorations certainly include roots, which are perfect for aquariums with fish, as well as for those where other creatures live. At this point it is worth mentioning that the roots may require additional cleaning as this way you can get rid of any contamination. In order to properly prepare the roots for our aquarium, it is enough to steam them with boiling water or soak them for a longer period of time. There are plenty methods found on different forums how to prepare the roots or wood to put into the aquarium water. Remember that different methods can be dedicated to different kinds of roots or wood so choose them carefully.
Certainly, the presence of such accessories will be appreciated by your fish and shrimp because it is an ideal place for them to shelter and rest. However, this is not the end of the proposal, because natural decorations can also include natural rocks and stones, which can imitate the natural bottom of the water reservoir. And here also... we need to be careful. Many stones and rocks affect the water chemistry, e.g. the limestone which is dedicated mostly to African lake biotopes because it rises the water pH and not many fish species can handle this. Moreover, avoid rocks with sharp edges that can hurt your fish' fins.
Among natural ornaments, leaves can be used, especially in biotope aquariums. But here also we have to remember that they affect water chemistry, e.g. oak acidifies the water due to large amount of tannins; walnut slightly changes the water color. Look around the trees in your neighborhood, there is a great chance that you'll find a species that will enrich your aquarium decor.
It's quite obvious, but worth pointing out that choosing different live plants contrasting with fish is the best natural aquarium ornament. Although some species of real plants are used to fill the space, there are some live plants that are being chosen to catch the viewer's eye. Introducing live plants in different colors or blooming plants will surely improve your aquarium decor. Look into our recent articles about Madagascar lace or Ludwigia mini sp. super red which are very decorative and available in aquarium trade.
Remember that injecting carbon dioxide is very beneficial for live plant growth and its vibrant colors. Look into our offer of CO2 Systems provided by CO2Art HERE! Together with appropriate lighting, your aquarium plants will grow healthy, fast and beautifully.
The natural decorations for the aquarium also include ornaments made of bamboo, coconut, natural woods or clay. For example, smaller pieces of wood floating on the water surface are great in case of black waters biotope aquarium.
An interesting solution will be the use of ceramic ornaments, including corals, castles or tubes, which will certainly increase the tank decor.
Right next to natural decorations, there will be many artificial solutions. Artificial aquarium decorations also have a positive effect on the appearance of a tank with fish or other creatures. In the case of artificial decorations, there are plastic ornaments and ornaments made of various types of materials, inter alia sunken ships.
Artificial decorations, including, for example, plastic flowers or other fake plants, are perfect where live plants cannot be grown in an aquarium, i.e. when they are destroyed or eaten by fish.
Decorative backgrounds can also be included in the category of artificial decorations. These aquarium products are perfect to emphasize the charm and character of the aquarium. They add depth to the tank and, most importantly, cut off the elements behind the rear window - the wall or the furniture.
When planning the construction of an aquarium, it is quite important to choose the glass from which it will be made. While planning to use interesting decoration in our aquarium, it is worth considering the use of Optiwhite glass. The Optiwhite aquarium is a great idea when we want to accurately reproduce the colors of plants, decorations, fish and everything that will be in the aquarium. An aquarium made of this type of glass is characterized by great transparency and does not have the greenish tint typical of float glass, visible especially at the edges of the glass.
Many of us are used to the fact that when choosing decorations, we choose what we like visually. However, in the case of aquarium decorations, the choice cannot be accidental. First of all, we must take into account the inhabitants of the aquarium, i.e. the fish or other animals living in it. But that's not all, because the environment itself is important.
We need to know that some natural ornaments should not be present in some aquariums due to the adverse effects of water, which means that e.g. freshwater aquariums must have appropriately selected tank decorations and vegetation.
However, this is not the end, because if we want the aquarium to look beautiful and its inhabitants to have adequate living conditions, we should make sure that all the selected elements as plants, roots, woods, lighting, form an integral whole. Therefore, when choosing decorations for an aquarium, let's do it very carefully.
Each ornament should harmonize with the vegetation, be adapted to the fish and the type of water. Remember that some species like dense plants while other require more space to swim, and others need to dig in the substrate. Just let's try to create an aquarium decor that is similar to their natural habitat. If all conditions are fulfilled, we will certainly manage to create an aquarium everyone will admire.
We're sure that among our audience there are many hobbyists who was saying at the beginning of the aquarium adventure that "arrangement is easy" but changed their mind after setting up the first freshwater tank. And there is nothing surprising about this- there are so many possibilities that we can't be certain about the final effect. And this is exciting about this hobby- everything depends on the imagination (and maintanance ;) ).
]]>In nature, this rhiozome plant occurs in Africa, hence its common name but also it's called Congo fern and in latain Bolbitis heudelotii.
It reaches dimensions from 15 to 40 cm and is a typical plant to be inoculated on roots and stones, and as a water epiphyte it is used in most aquarium arrangements.
The plant should not be buried in the substrate. It should be tied with a string or thread to the stone, root or attached to the suction cup, which we stick to the aquarium glass.
After the plant is attached, we recommend that you trim all the leaves and leave the rhizome bare. This simple trick will make the plant produce more leaves with a more intense color and will be a unique ornament in your aquarium.
Remove the older leaves with sharp scissors. You can also divide the rhizome into smaller 2-3 cm fragments and place them in different places in the aquarium (e.g. on the roots). Regular removal of older leaves mobilizes the plant to produce more new shoots.
The African fern grows quite slowly so injecting CO2 will surely soar the growth rate. Moreover, the colouration of the leaves will be definitely more intense which can be seen with a naked eye. Check our offer of the most reliable CO2 Systems that will improve your planted aquarium.
The Congo fern feels best it temperature between 21-28 Celcius degrees, soft water and pH below 7. To control the pH visually, trust our CO2Art Drop Checker Monitoring Set which will indicate the carbon dioxide levels in your aquarium!
If you're looking for a nice plant for the background or the middle part of the aquarium, African fern will be a good choice. Thanks to many sizes of its leaves available in aquarium trade, it gives the aquascaper many possibilities in terms of arrangement in the planted tank. When placed adequately, it can be a cherry on top in any arrangement.
]]>Due to the latitudinal extent of more than 8,000 kilometers, Asia has all types of climate zones. Due to the lack of ocean influence on the west side and the isolation of mountain ranges, most of the continent has a continental climate with little rainfall and a large temperature difference, and only the eastern and southern parts are affected by the sea.
The climatic diversity of Asia means that most of the plant systems that exist on earth can be found on the Asian continent.
Land relief is the major factor in Asia's water network, which is radiant and covers the watersheds of all four oceans. Asia also has the largest non-drainage area on Earth.
In individual regions, there is a large diversification of water flow in rivers related to uneven distribution of rainfall. Rivers that have a basin in the monsoon climate area are fundamentally different from the rivers in North Asia belonging to the Arctic Sea basin. There are four types of Asian rivers:
They are represented by the Ob and Yenisei, with high water levels throughout the year. In their upper sections, these are typically mountain rivers with a swift current and clear water. After emerging on the plains, the rivers flow more calmly and have wide channels. In winter, they freeze partially or completely. Rapid current and low temperature prevent the settlement and growth of aquatic plants and free-living invertebrates. Algae can be found at the bottom. Siberian rivers abound in fish. The most popular fish living in Siberian rivers are sturgeons, pike and trout.
They are represented by rivers such as the Ganges, Indus, Mekong with a large difference in water levels. These rivers have their source near Tibet, from which they flow towards the Indian or Pacific oceans. In the upper reaches they are mountain rivers, in the lower they spread widely, carrying large amounts of silt. They often flood during the summer monsoons. Monsoon rivers are very heterogeneous in terms of the ecosystem. Upstream, they take the form of a swift stream with clear, ice-cold water, turning into a cloudy pool at the mouth with a temperature typical of tropical waters. Therefore, one cannot write about one monsoon biotope, because as rivers flow into the oceans, the physical and chemical conditions change, and thus also the fauna and flora. In biotope aquariums, the most common representation of three ecosystems found in monsoon rivers: mountain stream, South-East Asia river, and river backwaters in India. In monsoon rivers, fish are represented by numerous species of the carp and catfish families, e.g. small asian catfish.
They are found in Asia Minor such as Kyzyl and Ihrmak. High water levels occur here during the rainy season, which takes place in winter. In summer, levels are very low and some even dry up temporarily.
The rivers of the drainage area, which often do not have a permanent bed. These rivers originate from the mountains of Central Asia and end up flowing into lakes or disappearing into deserts. An example is the river Tarym. The biotopes of these rivers are relatively little studied and difficult to define unequivocally due to their changing location.
The above division does not give a full picture of the diversity of aquatic ecosystems in Asia, because in the same area, in rivers of a similar nature, there may be different physical and chemical conditions of the water, which will result in the occurrence of different flora and fauna. Therefore, when setting up a biotope aquarium, it is important to define the natural environments to be reproduced as accurately as possible.
A natural biotope characterized by ascetic décor, high transparency and a strong current of water so the filtration system should be effective. The mountain stream may represent the upper reaches of any rivers in Asia.
Arrangement
The ground should be stones with smooth edges and coarse gravel, possibly with sand in some places. Natural looking pieces of wood may be used as decoration, but this is not necessary. Animals must have enough space to swim.
The water parameters
Average water conditions should be pH 7-7.5, average hardness and temperature from 18 to 22 degrees Celsius.
Plants
The vegetation is also poor, because the whole flora should be green algae, or you can supplement the arrangement with single cuttings of Vallisneria or moss with small leaves.
Fish
Fish species suitable for this biotope are inter alia zebrafish, rosy barbs, cardinals or Siamese algae eater.
Lighting
Lighting is a matter of your choice - the mountain stream looks good both in daylight and artificial lighting, and due to the lack of plants - their requirements do not have to be taken into account.
A biotope typical of the middle reaches of rivers such as the Mekong.
Arrangement
The substrate should be gravel and river sand. Pieces of wood, roots and pebbles can be used in the arrangement. The aquarium should be quite densely planted.
Water parameters
For the South Ease Asia Biotope maintain the following conditions Ph 6-6.5, soft or very soft water, temperature from 20 to 25 degrees Celsius.
Flora
As for dense vegetation, the choice is quite large. Virtually all Eleocharis sp., Cryptocoryne sp. are suitable, you can also take a risk with water onion.
Fish
Livestock can be loaches, barbs, zebrafish, a group of rasbora, walking catfish
Lighting
Different lighting that creates light spots and shadows in the aquarium looks good.
Pieces of wood, roots and pebbles can be used in the arrangement. The aquarium should be quite firmly planted.
An example of an ecosystem is the Ganges and Indus backwaters region.
Arrangement
The substrate should be river sand and gravel. Rocks, stones, roots and pieces of wood can be used in the arrangement. The coves are also places where a lot of leaves and branches are collected. While choosing rocks and stones be aware what is their source and preparation because some of them may have impact on water chemistry.
Water parameters
Water parameters are Ph 7.0 to 7.5, soft or medium hard water, temperature from 21 to 26 degrees Celsius. You should take care of a weak water current.
Plants
Desirable vegetation are plants from genus Rotala and Aponogeten.
Fish
To reflect the natural habitat of the sunny bay in India, you can introduce rosy barbs, zebrafish, rasboras or loaches
Lighting
It is important that the aquarium is really "sunny", that is strongly lit.
Asia is also the land of many lakes. The largest of them is the Caspian Sea - a drainless water reservoir with a very high salinity. An interesting fact is Lake Balkhash, a drainless reservoir in Kazakhstan, which has salt water in the eastern part and fresh water in the western part. The largest tidal lake in Asia is Baikal - the deepest lake in the world. Its characteristic feature is clear water, thanks to which the bottom can be seen even at a depth of several dozen meters. The temperature of the waters of Lake Baikal averages 4 degrees Celsius. The vegetation of Lake Baikal is poor due to low temperatures and high water hardness, but it has a very rich fauna, including endemic species of fish such as omul or Baikal oilfish.
Artificial water reservoirs used to irrigate rice fields are typical of the heavily transformed Chinese landscape. These reservoirs, and the channels that irrigate them, are one of the most frequently reconstructed ecosystems. These are shallow ponds with periodically cloudy waters, poorly oxygenated and strongly heated. The vegetation is dominated by various types of limnophilia and fish. The main inhabitants of the reservoirs are labyrinth fish, and various species of rasboras and barbs are also often found.
The southern part of Asia, especially the Malay Peninsula and the islands of the Malay Archipelago, due to high rainfall, abound in swamp territories and puddles hidden in tropical forests. The water in these reservoirs is cloudy, poorly oxygenated and in extreme cases it reaches a temperature of up to 40 degrees Celsius. These regions are the home of many underwater and amphibious plants, including numerous picture-like representatives. From underwater plants you can find limnophila and eleocharis. The reservoirs with ungrown surfaces are home to rasboras, zebrafish and carps. In overgrown ponds and swamps - mainly labyrinth fish.
The aquarium is to reflect the pond ecosystem located among rainforests. It is characterized by very little or no water flow and economical lighting.
Arrangement
The substrate should be materials with an acid base: peat or clay. For arrangement use peat roots, which should form a picturesque tangle with numerous hiding places. Prepared, dry leaves or pieces of wood are also suitable for this set up.
Water parameters
The water parameters are pH 5.5-6.0, soft water, temperature 26 to 29 degrees Celsius.
Plants
Plants from genus Eleocharis, Cryptocoryna, Limnophila will be a great choice and the aquarium should be quite densely planted.
Fish
The fish species you can introduce to the Asian biotope tank are e.g. Siamese fighting fish, many species of the carp family, loaches, gouramis or harlequin rasbora which likes humid acids dissolved by the peat roots.
Lighting
Dim lighting, emphasizing the mysterious atmosphere in which the aquarium is kept. Spot lighting works very well.
Biotope of artificial irrigation water reservoirs in China. In nature, these are shallow ponds or swamp formations with periodically high turbidity and high temperatures.
Arrangement
The substrate should be river sand and gravel. As an arrangement, mainly plants should be used, including floating and growing above the water surface, which, however, should not cover the entire surface of the water.
Water parameters
Water parameters: pH 6.5 to 6.9, soft water, temperature from 25 to 29 degrees Celsius.
Plants
Plant species for this biotope is not rice but plants from genus limnophila, vallisneria, hygrophila. For risky aquascapersa barclaya longifolia will be a good idea.
Fish
Labyrinths fish, gourami, guppies and barbs may be used.
Lighting
Medium intensity.
As you can see, there are a few types of the Asian biotope you can set up in your home aquarium and feel like in India during a stunning sunset or like in Japan during hiking along upper parts of the Asian rivers. We keep fingers for you to create the magnificent illusion called aquascape and hope you'll share the effects with us!
]]>The neon tetra is a lively, freshwater fish from South America. It is a herd fish, therefore, depending on the size of the tank, it is recommended to keep at least 10 individuals in the tank, leaving the herd a lot of swimming space. Males are slender than females, but sexual dimorphism is poorly visible with a naked eye. As neon tetra fish live in the dark waters of South American rivers in nature, decorations made of wood and stones with dense vegetation and not too intense lighting will be perfect in the aquarium. Regular water changes are important for neon tetras, as this species of fish is quite sensitive to poor water parameters. It prefers soft to medium-hard water and the water temperature of 21-24 degrees Celsius. Theresfore it's worth controlling the KH (carbonate hardness) by performing aquaristic tests or using the drop checker method to keep your neon tetra in proper conditions.
Sick fish and vectors are the main source of infection. The parasite can also enter the aquarium water with the substrate or plants or live food. To minimalize of occuring neon tetra disease in your aquarium, buy plants from in-vitro cultivation. Such plants are being grown in very sterile conditions which means that the risk of bringing unwelcome parasite to the aquarium is much lower. While buying plants in the pet stores it's good to ask the seller how was the plant cultivated to minimize the risk that the neon tetra disease will overwhelm your freshwater tanks. Most fish suffer from the neon disease because of introducing new live organisms to the tank too earl. So quarantine fish and plants for a few weeks before joining the community tank to avoid the unwelcome parasitic organism.
Infection occurs when the parasite enters the fish's digestive system. It also happens that the neon tetra disease is inherited, i.e. fish with ovaries attacked by the parasite lay infected eggs, so the disease can also develop in very young inviduals.
The risk of occuring neon tetra disease is higher in fish that have weak immune system or are in advanced age. The neon tetra disease can also be introduced into the tank with frozen or live food from unreliable source. Fish flakes are safer option in this case ;)
Most often, in the initial stages key signs of the disease that we can observe the appearance of white, shiny spots on the muscles of the head and torso of the fish's body. Sometimes transverse whitish streaks appear. Depending on the fish species, these changes may take various forms, for example, some neon tetra species lose coloration partially , and in the case of other species, the characteristic blue-green streak is unevenly colored. Sometimes a gradual fading of the colors (whitening or graying) is observed, progressing from the tail towards the head. Sick fish float diagonally, with tail down, and occasionally make a series of restless movements. In some cases fish swim erratically. At night, the fish are unnaturally animated and move around the aquarium restlessly. There are also fish falling asleep right after the first symptoms appear. At an advanced stage when the neon tetra disease progresses, the infected fish eat less and white lumps appear in their muscles. Fraying of the fins is also occasionally observed in the fish tanks. Also with time the fish's spine may become curved. Pararelly to neon tetra disease, further infections as fin rot may occur.
Unfortunately, effective treatments for neon tetra disease have not been developed. If this disease is diagnosed, all aquarium fish should be treated as potential vectors. Most specialists recommend that all aquarium inhabitants should be eliminated. If you have extremely valuable specimens that do not show any symptoms, you can postpone their elimination and move them to a quarantine aquarium until you get offspring from them. It is necessary to strictly observe the isolation of the tanks, i.e. do not move plants, do not use the same devices or tools for catching fish. If offspring obtained from fish suspected to be carriers develop normally and show no signs of disease, it can be assumed that the fish are not infected. Otherwise, both adults and juveniles should be eliminated from the aquarium.
The aquarium in which the disease was found and all equipment should be thoroughly decontaminated, and the substrate and plants should be discarded.
To prevent neon tetra disease, observe strictly you fish. As well at least a month's quarantine of new fish is necessary and buying them from the so-called reliable source. It is also advisable to be careful when introducing plants or materials that make up the substrate into the aquarium. That's a very popular advise in fish keeping hobby. Unfortunately many aquarium hobbyists don't follow this rule which means that the risk of introducing bacterial and parasitic infections to the aquarium soars.
The false neon tetra disease has very similar symptoms to neon tetra disease. This disease is caused by the bacteria Flavobacterium columnare. As almost always in case of bacterial infections, the antibacterial treatment is possible with anthibiotics and very often ends up with great success. It's a great exaple that it's worth trying to treat the sick neon tetra becuase there are various types of diseases in fish world which may have the same symptoms.
Prevention is better than treating neon tetra disease- that's for sure. Purchase fish from reliable sources. Buy in-vitro plants. Quarantine new fish. Observe the fish tank. Decontamine aquaristic tools.
We strongly hope that this article will help you to keep your neon tetras safe and healthy in your beautiful fish tank. Fish's health is important for the whole underwater ecosystem!
]]>We know how wide the aquasaping community is. We all create this together. And what is obvious, aquascapers make friendships. Probably many of you have friends in aquarium hobby so if you thought of giving them any aquarium gadget they may like, you're in a good place.
Although for many aquarists it's obvious, giving someone new aquarium fish is rather a bad idea. Usually we don't know special information about the aquarium of the receiver. Water chemistry, dimensions of the tank, current live stock, water temperature etc. should be always considered when deciding on any species. It's best when the aquarium owner buys the fish. Keeping fish is like keeping pets. Stocking the fish tank should be a responsible choice.
This rule is also suitable for buying aquatic plants. To be precised, plants that are not from in-vitro farm. Why? The plants coming from non-in-vitro farms can bring e.g. unwelcome pathogens or snails eggs to the tank. This may lead to struggling with diseases and stable water conditions and instead of having a new plant in the tank, the aquarist has problems. And last, but not least, if the gift is a surprise, the receiver may not have place for the plant at the moment which is also a disadvantage.
Fish food is also one of the gifts that can be a waste of money. Many aquarium lovers have their favourite brands and often choose fish foods that are dedicated to particular species- so again- if you don't have any knowledge about the food her/his fish prefer, maybe it's better to buy a voucher to the local pet store.
The list is long here. Starting with a water test kit which aquarists use on daily basis, through fertilizers and nets. How to decide on only one thing? It depends on the budget.
Test kits would be something useful. Aquarists use them to monitor mainly ammonia, nitretes, nitrates and pH but there are different kinds of tests dedicated to different compounds in aquarium water.
If your friend doesn't have this gadget in his/her CO2 tank, this gift will surely help her/his to monitor the pH constantly. The kit comes with an elegant glass which won't disturb the arrangement of the aquarium. Look into our offer and purchase our Drop Checker Kit, which is being shipped worldwide. Also Drop Checker Solution is available separately in our store which is also a great "extra" to the main gift.
Being an aquarium owner means that there are lots of things to think about at any given time, and with this being true you may wish to consider buying your loved one a more practical gift, that they are certain to thank you for in the long term. Things like replacement bulbs and filters may seem simple – but there is nothing worse than running out and having to run to the shops to buy one, so keeping your loved one well stocked up is more than worth it.
Aquarium decorarions are other gifts that aquarium enthusiasts may like. As we are nature style lovers, in our opinion ornaments like cocnuts and naturally coloured stones would be a great gift. Moreover, there are plenty tutorials on Youtube how to prepare a coconut to put into the aquarium so maybe think of such an DYI gift?
This paragraph is dedicated probably to the real enthusiasts with not tight budget. But hey... Big occations also happen! Why not to share the costs among the family and buy a premium CO2 regulator which is a dream of almost every aquascaper? Together with the regulator, you receive up to 10 years warranty and a lifetime support! We're sure any aquarium lover will enjoy this high quality equipment. Let us help you to compare our two models of CO2Art Dual Stage Regulators.
This is the most popular model in our store. It comes with maximal working pressure 40PSI. The pressure stabilisation is around 5PSI. The regulator contains also a bubble counter with integrated check valve. Possible to work with one diffuser. Check our range of exclusive diffusers which will come up to expectations of the most demanding clients.
This regulator is the most advanced CO2 regulator on the market. I comes with maximum working pressure 80 PSI and pressure stabilisation around 1 PSI. This regulator comes with one bubble counter but it's possible to purchase extra manifold blocks and work with more than one diffuser. 10 years warranty and wonderful customer service guaranteed!
If you're not certain if the receiver will like the gift, don't take a risk and buy him/her a voucher. This can be to the local pet store, store with aquatic plants or to any e-commerce platform with aquarium stuff. We also have one in our offer so don't hasitate to purchase one directly from our website.
We are sure that there are plenty of different gift ideas perfect for aquarium lovers. In our opinion, it's important to buy useful and not live gifts because we have no idea if the receiver has place for live plants and live creatures. To sum up, any gift given honestly with love will be surely appriciated no matter how much money you will spend on it.
]]>Firstly, in nature, this plant occurs in Asia, growing on wood and rocks in streams and rivers. It's considered as easy-to-maintain aquarium plant as it doesn't need high amount of carbon dioxide and intense lighting to grow healthy. That's why it would be a perfect choice for beginners looking for an ornamental plant species suitable for the middle part of the aquarium or the foreground. Bucephalandra Biblis is a medium-sized variety of Bucephalandra, which is characterized by an oblong leaf with a strongly folded edge. The color of the leaves, depending on the conditions in the aquarium, lighting and fertilization, can be burgundy to dark green. Young leaves may be yellow-orange. As in nature, it makes best composition with wood and rocks so it's worth planting it near the hardscape.
The rhizome of the plant should not be buried in the substrate but it must be placed above its surface. The plant can be attached to a root or a stone with a fishing line or a glue suitable for epiphytes.
We remove the older leaves with sharp scissors with a curved blade right at the base.
The plant does not require regular trimming to form a dense group.
Bucephalandra bibilis will do in an aquarium without carbon dioxide fertilizing. However, we always underline that injecting CO2 into the aquarium water has a great impact on the plant growth. The growth rate is higher, the plant grows healthier and the colouration is much more intense. Find the right balance of carbon dioxide by using our Drop Checker Kit which will allow you to monitor the amount of CO2 in your aquarium water.
This plant species grows well with low-to-medium light intensity. Less than 0,5W/l is recommended.
Temperature 20-28 Celsius degrees is fine for this species. Such a wide range is an advantage in terms of having many different plant species in one aquarium.
As you can see, this plant is a good choice for everyone looking for an ornamental aquatic plant that will gently fill the central part of their planted tank. Thank to its low requirements, can be grown in both low-tech aquariums and high-tech aquariums. Decorative and elegant. We like it. And you?
]]>However, injecting the gas into the tank is not a simple case where you just add as much as possible. This gas is too much deadly to your fish when overdosed. You should thus monitor or test the level of gas levels of carbon dioxide in your tank using a CO2 Regulator. This will help you to fertilize your plants adequately and not to endanger your fish.
Fish do not flourish in high levels of CO2. Concentrations of CO2 above 30-35mg/l are indeed toxic to most aquarium lives. By ensuring proper setting of your aquarium, you reduce the problem of excess CO2. Such a problem can only occur in a good set-up tank if the gas fertilization results to an overdose.
However, the gas may build up to a dangerous CO2 levels in an over-stocked tank with poor water circulation (so poor gas exchange), even without the addition of extra CO2. This mostly happens at night when the oxygen use is high along with more released CO2; watch out when you see fish gasping at the surface.
Therefore, you can only keep both fish and aquarium plants happy in the same aquarium by balancing the carbon dioxide necessities of the plants with the maximums of fish. By managing the concentration of CO2, you ensure a healthy ecosystem in your planted aquariums.
You can measure the amount of carbon dioxide in your planted aquarium water by testing both the KH (carbonate hardness) levels and the pH with the test kits. You can then use the results of this basic relationship to evaluate the concentration of the gas. You need to get the standard reference table and then cross-reference the two values, and their intersection gives the CO2 levels in your tank in mg/liter.
Aquarists also use other CO2 regulators such as drop checkers and CO2 constancy devices to monitor regularly carbon dioxide levels. For this case, you measure pH fluctuations by employing a calibrated tracking fluid that works by changing color when the levels of CO2 changes. Since you install drop checkers permanently in your planted tanks, you will get an at-a- glance reading of CO2. You will see a dark blue color if there is too little, a green color if the CO2 level is optimal and a lime green to yellow color if there is excess CO2. Some people sat that lime green color of drop checkers is optimal but remember that there are species extremely sensitive to high CO2 levels in aquarium water. For sure this method it's easier because we don't have to analyze the whole water chemistry to safely monitor the CO2 levels.
And here only a few words... Athough there are plenty of DYI recepies how to make a drop checker on Internet forums, be aware, that mixing a well calibrated fluid is not an easy task. We encourage you to choose reliable brands when choosing a drop checker. One advantage of this solution is that companies are specialized in producing such a ph reagent and will probably do it more accurately. The second is that the glass provided has better design than a vodka glass. And the third that the price is reasonable and you can also purchase the solution separately. All three combined together win over unaccurate home ph reagent.
We find this method very effective because it allows the aquariust regularly monitor ph levels which is essencial for fish. And here, also, remember that there are fish species which live in nature in water where ph levels are higher because of e.g. rocks in the substrate (e.g. Malawi Biotope). Always read as much as you can before providing new species to your aquarium becuase it may turn out, that they have special requirements.
If all the information considered, you can start with installing our Drop Checker Kit. Take a look at our quick tutorial how to install a drop checker in your aquarium.
Read more about this effective method in our detailed article about drop checkers.
As you can see, using carbon dioxide in planted aquarium is not complicated in times of Internet, access to proper tables with ready numbers and necessary equipment. But you need to remember that this gas can be lethal to aquarium fish if overdosed so monitoring is essencial. For best developement of your underwater ecosystem, we encourage you to rely on trustworthy brands. Let us help you to have CO2 in your aquarium and safely control CO2 levels accurate for your aquatic plants and aquarium lives. You'll see gas fertilization results in the blink of an eye. Rapid and healthy growth of your plants will be observed at first. Trust our convenient kits and your planted tank will never be the same aquarium.
]]>There is a common myth that biotope aquaria are reserved only for experienced aquarists. That's not truth! In our opinion this specific natural setting is a set up which all aquarists should try because it may turn out that it's your cup of tea! Among numerous biotopes we decided to show you today how you can set up your own African river or African lake biotope aquarium!
Africa is located almost symmetrically on both sides of the equator. It is a compact continent with a poorly developed coastline, the second largest area and a huge latitudinal extent.
The topography of the continent is dominated by highlands, which make up 2/3 of the continent, separated by valleys. The eastern part of Africa is separated from the rest by faults limiting huge tectonic ditches, the bottom of which is filled with the waters of the lakes. The highest point of Africa is the Kibo peak in the Kilimanjaro Massif (5,895 m above sea level), and the lowest - Lake Assal in the Danakil Basin (173 m above sea level). Africa is located in zones of hot and locally temperate climates. The location on both sides of the equator means that theoretically the north and south have the same climate. However, the greater distance from the sea in the northern part creates a continental climate inside the Sahara. Due to the dense coastline, sea currents have a great influence on the climate.
There are generally three types of rivers in Africa:
-Permanent rivers - these are rivers with a constant, high water level, occurring or, as in the case of the Nile, having their sources in the humid equatorial zone. Examples of such rivers, apart from the Nile, are the Congo, the Oranje and the Zambezi and other African rivers. These rivers usually have wide beds and a fairly rapid water current, often piled up with numerous waterfalls. There are many species of fish, including upside down catfish and various cichlids. The longest river in the world which is also the largest river system in Africa - the Nile, which runs through all climatic and landscape zones in Africa, deserves a more detailed description, therefore its physical and chemical parameters, and thus also its fauna and flora, change in different sections. The biotope of the Nile near Lake Victoria looks completely different from the muddy waters in the river delta that have been heavily transformed by humans.
-Seasonal rivers - these are the rivers of the savannah which flow in full water current in the rainy season, while in the dry season they dry up completely or almost completely. Water parameters change from a swift current to a partially dry canal, often from high salinity. They are mainly inhabited by fish from the carp family. An example of a periodic river is Bahr al-Arab and Azaauak.
-Episodic rivers - occurring in deserts. Their troughs (wadis) only fill with water when it rains heavily. Sometimes they soak into the sand within a few hours. Episodic rivers are the Saaura and the Irawan.
Aquarists especially beloved two of the biotopes of African river:
- The Congo River Biotope
- The Biotope of periodic rivers
A biotope coming from the Central Africa characterized by a fairly strong water current and modest plant arrangement.
Sand and pieces of rock should be used as the substrate.
The parameters of the water are: Ph 7.0-7.8, temperature 24-27 Celsius degrees.
Plants: crinum and anubias
Fish species: Congo tetras, cichlids, Synodontis. Don't introduce other tank mates which may eat small tetras.
Pieces of rock (also large plates imitating waterfalls) and pieces of wood can be used for the arrangement. The key element of the arrangement in this biotope aquarium is the constant movement of water and the water should be well aerated.
The best representation of this biotope should direct aquarists towards the paludarium, because the most natural look would be complemented with swamp plants. The impression of a drying up river can also be achieved by the rich arrangement of the water section.
The substrate may be gravel of various thickness, even fine gravel will do.
Water parameters: Ph 5.5-7, water temperature 24-28 degrees Celsius.
Plants: plants from genus pistia, anubias, water hyacinth
Fish species: Redtail notho, banded panchax should be suitable tankmates
The arrangement may be large pieces of wood protruding above the water surface, stones and lignites which will be the hiding places. The flora should be dense and as varied as possible. Floating plants make the great misterious effect.
Africa does not have a special multitude of lakes, but the ones that do occur are extremely interesting because of the endemic species inhabiting them. Particularly interesting are the rift African Great Lakes (Lake Victoria, Lake Albert, Lake Edward, Tanganyika, Malawi), which fill the tectonic depressions of the Great African Rifts. These lakes are characterized by clear waters of great depth and a rocky bottom full of grottos and rock debris. In fact, each of the lakes is a separate biotope with species of flora and fauna that are typical only for them. Lake Chad, a drainless lake that is partially dry in the dry season, also deserves a mention. The lake has shallow and warm waters and muddy shores covered with swamp vegetation. There are endemic species, e.g. a common West African lungfish.
Although Africa is associated more with a lack of water, one of the typical landscapes of the continent is vast swamps, created by the seasonal flooding of rivers. The most famous are the swamps in the Okavango delta.
Among the above mentioned lakes and standing waters, the biotopes we can meet the most often in tanks are The Malawi, Tanganyika and Wiktoria Lakes Biotopes.
A biotope that delights with the raw beauty of the rocks, which are the background for a variety of colorful fish.
The substrate should be sand or gravel.
Water parameters: pH between 7.7 and 8.8, water temperature 24-29 Celsius degrees.
Plants: algae (which is a natural food for mouthbrooders), single anubias or vallisneria
Fish: different varieties of the Malawi cichlids
The arrangement should be based mainly (or only) on rocks and stones, as it is supposed to imitate rock debris. If someone cares about plants - rather single pieces between the rocks.
It is good to use spot lighting that will enhance the amazing effect.
Substrate: sand
Water parameters: Ph 7.1-9.0, temperature 26-34 degrees Celsius, clear water
Plants: plants suitable for this biotope can be vallisneria, anubias
Fish: some varieties of mouthbrood and cichlids
Rocks, stones can be used as an arrangement, the roots look good as if they "enter" the aquarium from above.
Lighting not too sharp.
A biotope with a large variety of fish and rock decorations.
Sand and small stones can be used as a substrate.
Water parameters: pH between 7.6 and 9.2, water temperature 24-29 degrees Celsius, clear water.
Plants: vallisneria, watermilfoils
Fish: species found in this biotope are Julidochromis dickfeldi, cichlids, tropheus
Large rocks (especially sandstones and limestones), stones, and empty shells can be used for the arrangement. Plants should not be too dense.
The lighting should not be too intense, spotlighting looks good.
If you’re deciding to set up African biotope aquarium, be aware that different rocks and stones have an impact on the water chemistry. For fish living in deep African lakes rich in such rocks, pH is higher than in case of other freshwater species which should also be considered when choosing the stocking. It's worth buying wood, rocks and stones that are available in aquarium trade. Of course the amount of fish introduced to the aquarium should also meet their space requirements. Overstocking may lead to serious problems for the whole aquarium ecosystem and rescuing such an environment from the catastrophe is the last thing any hobbyist wants. Moreover, if you thought of adding species that are not on the list, remember that they should have similar water requirements which is particularly important in terms of biotope aquaria.
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In nature, black molly fish occurs in Central and South America and other mollies. These tropical fish's natural habitat is mostly South America's freshwater streams. Still, sometimes they are observed in seas as they adapt to saltwater conditions. Despite this fact, they instead prefer freshwater habitats. Black molly catches the eye thanks to its unique colouration - entirely black. Thanks to it, it adds an exciting colour to each fish tank and contrasts with the surroundings.
Moreover, it is a vivacious and sociable freshwater fish that fits into a general, multi-species community tank. The community fish are ideal tank mates also because they feed on unwelcome algae. Although black mollies are not schooling fish, keeping a few of these individuals for a comfortable life is recommended. In aquariums smaller than 100l (so 270-gallon tank), it's better to keep one male and 4-5 females. Males of this species become very territorial, so even in the case of larger tanks, it's essential to have more females than males. Gender diversity is visible to the naked eye. Males have an anal fin modified to serve as a copulatory organ, known as a gonopodium. Moreover, male mollies are more petite than female molly fish, which grow to 8-10cm in the aquarium.
Now let's talk about black molly's requirements which should be considered before adding it to the current stocking. Firstly, this species is sensitive to water temperature changes, so starting from introducing it to the quarantine aquarium (which is highly recommended before putting it into a general fish tank because the fish may bring unwelcome infections from the fish stores), be super delicate. A quarantine aquarium is a separate tank where the new fish should stay in case of health problems. If it turns out that you bought a sick fish, the quarantine aquarium will prevent other fish from being infected. Depending on the black molly disease, the infected black molly should be separated from the other tank mates as long as the symptoms are visible. Among black molly diseases, fish pox and protozoan are common. You can try to use aquarium salt baths to treat them, not in the same tank but in a hospital tank.
For black mollies' best development, try to maintain a stable temperature between 24-28 degrees Celsius. They are tropical fish, so they prefer warmer water. For the substrate, gravel is recommended. Black molly likes hiding places, so decorations of stones and dense, fast-growing plants (e.g. Anubias) will be a great choice. We recommend adding some floating plants, e.g. Vallisneria, for a better arrangement effect.
On the other hand, it's a lively fish, so space to swim is essential. The good thing is that black molly likes to swim in the central and upper parts of the tank, so you can admire it almost constantly. The water should be very well filtered and oxygenated, pH 7-8, water hardness 11-30dGH. Poor water quality and unstable water temperature can lead to serious health problems in the case of black molly fish, so ensure you're equipped with a proper filtration system and aquarium heater if needed.
Black mollies are also considered easy to care for in the black molly diet. They clearly prefer plant food. As the black mollies feed mainly near the water surface, they should be provided with a light flake food with a total or high plant content that does not sink too quickly. While deciding on the ready food, look if there are any ingredients supporting the fish's immune system because, as mentioned before, they are sensitive to temperature changes. It's worth investing in high-quality flake food containing, e.g. spirulina. We're sure that experienced fish keepers can advise you with fish food's best brands. It is also vital that the fish are not overfed. Too much food harms the animals themselves and can also upset the entire ecosystem in the aquarium and cause, e.g. snail expansion or too many toxic substances in water that disturb the water parameters. Some fish keepers prefer to support black mollies diet with some frozen foods, e.g. Daphnia.
The next advantage of keeping this species in the aquarium is that it likes eating algae. As every species of the Cleaning Crew, it has its favourite ones. The black molly is really effective with cleaning green and brown algae, as well as diatoms. Moreover, the young individuals also feed on cyanobacteria, so if you struggle with them, think of young black mollies, which may be the rescue. Adult fish prefer cleaning green algae, supporting their diet with flake food.
If you want to breed mollies, as long as you maintain optimal water parameters, including suitable water temperature, aeration and purity, breeding Black Molly should not be difficult. Pregnancy lasts from 4 to 6 weeks, and as a result, 10 to even 60 individuals appear. Black Molly is a livebearer fish, which means that female molly gives birth to fully formed young and capable of independent living. Moreover, the fry grows quickly and is not difficult to raise. However, to avoid being eaten by other fish, the female should be separated from the rest - by putting in a breeding place or other breeding tank. The young fry of black molly fish is very sensitive to toxins in the water, so the breeding tank should also be equipped with a filtration system. How to feed young black mollies? You can provide them with the same food as adult mollies, as long as it is chopped.
Independent artists have gone far and beyond to encapsulate the essence of aquariums into the canvas of a glass tank. The possibilities are endless as artists are always finding new ways to push design and functionality of aquascaping.
Aquascaping breathes life into its audience, yet its wonders are breath taking. It creates a sense of peace and calm, stimulating the mind and improving one’s mental health—an important topic in today’s society. Anyone who has had the privilege of personally viewing or owning a tank can vouch for the great experience it provides. As an artist, my endeavour is to reach a wider audience and showcase the beauty of this niche hobby.
One of the joys of aquascaping is its ability to tap deep into your inner creativity. It's a very unique form of art which can highly stimulate the brain. You’ll work on problem solving skills, as there is no set rule on how to scape and you’ll learn a lot on your own as you go. Aquascaping really encourages creative thinking and expands the horizons of your imagination, allowing you to think outside the box and reimagine life underwater
Aquascaping can be a game of patience. Sometimes, progress and results may not show for weeks or months, but when they do, you feel an overwhelming sense of accomplishment. The journey can be very gratifying, and the end-goal can be a great dose of dopamine. Often times, we forget how to uplift our spirits, and this hobby can be an amazing way to do just that—so say goodbye to seasonal depression!
However, there is a lot of work after building your aquarium, and a process you can’t skip is the the maintenance. This side of the hobby is the most labour intensive part, but it can be highly therapeutic and for some a substitute for meditation. Maintenance doesn’t have to feel like work; start off by turning off your filter and set the mood by playing music in the background to get yourself prepared.
Personally, I really enjoy the process of trimming. There is something satisfying about seeing bits of plants slowly float to the surface and I’m sure many will agree as there is huge audience that enjoys watching maintenance videos. Overall, it is more relaxing than work if the process is managed correctly.
After a maintenance, you’ll see a change in the habitants’ quality of life, which is a satisfaction within maintenance itself. Plants will pearl tiny little bubbles, fish will notably appear happier and be more active, and of course your water will be crystal clear. There is never a dull moment in the aquarium, and getting hands on is just another way of enjoying this hobby at a more intimate level.
Observing nature in the comfort of your own home or workspace (office) is a great way to reset yourself. After a long and potentially stressful day, coming home to an aquarium is something to look forward to. Watching nature in a glass box is an enormous stress reliever, which simultaneously decreases anxiety. Sometimes we just need a brain break and find ways to reset ourselves so we can regain our train of thought and tentative focus.
Going for a walk and getting some fresh air is a common practice to doing so, but having the opportunity to immerse yourself in an aquascape is a method of relaxing that many aren’t aware about. Getting lost in an aquascape can be very meditative. The life inside never stops, and with a well-stocked tank there is a lot of diversity to keep you well entertained. The peacefulness of an aquarium is very contagious, and you’ll find yourself at peace not too long after viewing.
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Macro nutrients, otherwise labelled as N-P-K (Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potassium) is consumed by aquatic plants in large amounts. They can be compared to carbohydrates and proteins in our food. These are needed for plant growth. The aquarium hobbyists would want to apply these plant nutrients on a regular basis an hour or so before “lights on”.
Micro aquarium fertilizers are composed of different minerals which plants need in small amounts for certain functions. Iron, Calcium, Magnesium, Boron and certain other trace elements are in fact needed to keep the plant healthy. These trace elements would be the vitamins and minerals of the plant world. These nutrients, opposite to the macro nutrients would be better applied after “lights out”.
The best fertilizer product should confirm the presence of these elements and how much of each one is present. Do not trust a brand that does not disclose this information. Just like when buying food in the supermarket, people need to know what stuff is made of and how much was used to make it.
Plants need plenty of nitrogen. This is the main food for any aquatic plant. Nitrogen is essential in the production of new plant growth. A tank that has enough Nitrogen supply is evident in bright, green, healthy leaves and very fast growing plants. Nitrogen in the form of nitrates and as the end product of the nitrogen cycle will be produced in a healthy, well cycled aquarium so careful consideration must be given as to how much of nitrogen should be applied to the aquarium. In heavily stocked tank, there would probably be needing little supplementation if any because nitrogen deficiency is not likely. It is for this reason that most bottles of fertilizers formulated for the planted aquarium have very little percentage or none of this stuff.
Nitrogen and Phosphorus are almost certainly present in a well cycled tank. This is basically being introduced to the tank through the fish food being given to the aquarium’s fauna. Phosphorous is vital in the plants cell generation and overall health but like Nitrogen careful consideration must be done to determine whether to introduce this compound in the planted tank. The tank is going to have this anyway. An appearance of very dark green stunted leaf zone is one sign that the tank lacks this nutrient. Low plant growth rate is another.
Potassium is essential to the plants ability to regulate water and certain nutrients. This is where most aquarium plant food products concentrate on providing since this is not normally found or produced in a planted aquarium. An Aquarium with sufficient Potassium and Phosphorous can be observed due to plants growing very healthy roots. Some stem plants can even be observed throwing roots on its middle section far from the substrate. Unlike Nitrogen and Phosphorous, an excess of Potassium in the water column has not been known to trigger algae growth but will certainly cause other problems as well. Yellowing or browning of the leaf margins is a sign of potassium deficiency. Stunted growth rate can be observed as well.
Of all the Micro Nutrients, Iron is one of the most essential. Some companies even go to the extent of having a separate bottle of extra iron fertilizer. Iron plays an important role in the synthesis of chlorophyll. This nutrient is responsible for the healthy colors in a planted aquarium and is indispensable in the Dutch Style planted tank. Iron comes in many forms. The form that plants can utilize is Fe2, commonly provided as Ferrous Sulfate. Plants do not need plenty of it but they do need it. Symptoms of Iron deficiency would be lack of pigments or coloration on new leaves giving it a yellowish appearance. Evident green veins on pale old leaves can be observed as well.
These elements when mixed in water is what makes aquarium water hard. These nutrients are generally found in tap water unless the local tap water is too soft which is rare. As a practical measure, just monitor the plant's TDS (Total Dissolved Solids). If it gets too low, then tank water is too soft and calcium and magnesium is definitely needed as a supplement. If TDS is too high, then the aquarist may need to mix soft water to it just to get the levels correctly. Most aquarists though do not have to supplement this in the planted aquarium. Twisted new growth is a sure sign of Calcium deficiency while Magnesium deficiency shows similar symptoms with Iron deficiency. Leaves become chlorotic giving it a yellowish appearance with darker veins. Oftentimes these symptoms show up together.
Other Micro nutrients to note are Boron, Manganese, Molybdenum and Zinc. These certain elements are being provided as an “all in one” fertilizer bottle. Though administered in small doses, these Micro nutrients are still essential for plants survival and general aquatic plant nutrition.
We can provide fertilizers for planted aquariums in various ways. A balanced general fertilizer is an ideal fertilization option for beginners in aquarium hobby because it does not require calculating the proportions of specific nutrients. Along with the experience gained, you can start supplementing separately macro- and micro nutrients in liquid fertilizer form. Using these liquid fertilizers helps in better control of more demanding species growth. These liquid fertilizers also allow growing plants with shades of brown and red. For full coloration, such plants may need larger amounts of nutrients or regulating the availability of individual nutrients.
Fertilizing with carbon dioxide is recommended specially in tanks with high light. Although using it in low lighted aquarium is also beneficial. Why? All plants need carbon dioxide to perfom the photosythesis. In high light tanks, plants are more stimulated to absorb CO2 from the water column. There are many plants which are considered as even impossible to grow in planted tanks without CO2 injection, e.g. eriocaulon cinereum. In nature, CO2 usually occurs in water in large quantities from underground deposits of this gas and decomposition of various organic compounds. Read this article to see details. In aquariums, there is not so much CO2 so fertilizing with this element is very useful in terms of plants growing. CO2 is also very beneficial for slow growing plants as it stimulates them to grow faster. Moreover, this plant fertilizer affects very positively on plant health and colouration. If you haven't tried CO2 yet, take a look at our descriptive article how to set up a CO2 enriched aquarium . We're sure that after setting up such an aquarium, you'll se obvious differences in your plants appearance.
It is important to note that overdosing with nutrients is just as nutrient deficiencies . This is not one of those scenarios where the quote “less is more” is applicable. Read the instructions on the label. Observe plants on a daily basis. Be familiar with your plant care requirements and do not provide more nutrients than needed otherwise your aquatic plants will suffer. We strongly hope that with this article you'll know how to deal with nutrient deficiencies in future!
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By investing in a good gravel for a tank, you will definitely improve the quality of life for your aquarium fish and plants. Choosing the right substrate for the aquarium determines not only the right conditions, but also the aesthetics of each tank. However, before you decide which gravel to choose for your fish and plants, be sure to familiarize yourself with the types of substrate and the possibilities offered by each of them. The quality of the sand or gravel you choose is very important, it will have an impact on the development of aquarium plants, pH and other water parameters. A reliable product will protect the aquarium against the multiplication of harmful bacteria, as well as ensure the correct and basic balance - and this is what every aquarium enthusiast depends on.
Gravel is by far the most frequently chosen substrate for almost every aquarium. It is used by both advanced breeders and amateur aquarium enthusiasts. It is a good choice because most plants take root very well, a substrate with a grain size of 1 to 3 mm works best. Of course, there is no answer to the question: what granulation will be the best for each aquarium - it all depends on what you want to grow in it, however, for safe granulation for all bottom dwelling fish, oscillations in the range of 3 to 10 mm. Remember that the 3 - 10 mm grain size litter will have smooth edges, so it will be suitable for all your fish.
In general, three types of gravel should be distinguished, which are recommended for most aquariums.:
This common substrate is usually grayish or white in shade, thanks to its smooth edges it will be perfect for bottom fish. Light colored substrate will contrast beautifuly with heavily planted aquarium.
You can usually find it in gray, greenish and red natural colors. It looks very natural. It can be adapted visually very easily to the aquatic environment and plants in your aquarium, thanks to its multicolour.
This is a black gravel. Dark basalt gravel is perfect for a freshwater aquarium because of its aesthetic appeal. As a rule, basalt is a material with quite sharp edges, which can injure bottom fish. Therefore, when deciding on a basalt substrate, make sure that its edges are rounded. Such a substrate will surely underline the beauty of light colored fish.
The most common substrates for a general aquarium are gravel substrate or sand. The sand has a patch of "inappropriate substrate for a water tank" stuck to it, but as it turns out - this is not true at all, the point is to choose a good quality sand. Fine-grained sand will be a much better solution than coarse sand, because the coarse sand can cut off the water supply to the roots of plants, without providing them with valuable nutrients necessary for their proper development, then the plants you grow in your water tank can start rot, and with it - the entire plant may die.
Volcanic substrate is also a very good choice when it comes to the complete equipment of a given tank. The volcanic substrate is characterized by very interesting colors, and besides, it is rich in micro and macro elements that can significantly enrich the ecosystem of the entire tank. It is worth knowing that such a volcanic substrate is also a great biological filter for the aquarium, thanks to which the entire tank is much cleaner.
To be honest, choosing the right substrate for your tank is a real challenge because when deciding what substrate will be suitable for your aquarium, it is not only about aesthetics. Correctly selected gravel or sand is a great foundation for live plants that will support their proper development and prevent the growth of harmful bacteria and microorganisms in the planted tank. The choice of a substrate for an aquarium is extremely important, because it mainly determines the optimal development of every living organism.
The granulation, which is recommended especially for planted aquariums, should be from 2 to 10 mm, because such values allow proper rooting of aquarium live plants. Fine-grained sand is perceived by many aquarists as an unsuitable aquarium substrate for planted tanks, but it is worth paying attention to fish species that love to bury themselves in the sand - so fine sand can be used in an aquarium with ease.
If you decide to cover the substrate of your planted tank with gravel, then know that if you plan to put aquarium plants in it with quite extensive roots, you should definitely pay attention to the granulation of the aquarium substrate - the larger the pebbles, the better for strongly rooted plants. It is also worth knowing that lining the aquarium with only gravel is not suitable for a planted tank, it is recommended to enrich it with fertilizer balls or other forms of fertilizers - such as sticks or tablets. It is good to properly nourish the substrate at the very beginning but it is best to do it at equal distances, adjusting the arrangement to the needs of specific plants types and species. Such nutrient rich substrate will definitelly let your plants grow healthier.
Regardless of its source and type of substrate, it should be carefully cleaned before placing it in the aquarium. For this purpose, sand or gravel should be thoroughly rinsed, and sometimes boiled. The exception are the substrates for planted tanks, which should not be rinsed when setting up an aquarium, unless the manufacturer recommends otherwise. Substrates in general aquariums should be periodically cleaned with a desilter, which removes light dirt from the bottom without moving the gravel. It is best to combine this with a water change. Sometimes, under-gravel filter is also used, which desludge the substrate during the daily functioning of the tank. A properly prepared substrate is one that has the right amount of micro and macro elements, you can compose them yourself, or use ready-made substrates, which are gaining more and more popularity due to the effects that can be achieved in your water tank with ready-made materials.
Most substrates for planted tanks have one thing in common, that is, they are clay based substrate s.This natural substrate material is an excellent substrate for ANY tank because clay absorbs and holds onto toxins, thus helping to maintain water quality. Clay also has the ability to grab nutrients from the water and to pa nutrients on to the plant roots. This special ability of clay is always appreciated, but is not essential. Moreover, the active substrate for the aquarium contains fertilizers for plants, has optimal granulation for root growth and maintains the desired hardness and low pH of the water. Such a substrate usually lasts for a certain period of time. It has a very good effect on the appearance and growth rate of the live plants. Thanks to the key nutrients such a substrate contains, plants development is incomparably better than when using ordinary gravel without any additives. Many of them contain a number of minerals, reduce KH and GH, stabilize the pH, clarify the water and support biological filtration thanks to its rough structure, ideal for colonization by beneficial bacteria. Such substrates have a number of filtration and sorption properties and are safe for live plants and animals. Be careful with activated substrates while setting up a biotope aquarium because such substrates absorb, inter alia, humic compounds that are essencial, for example, for black waters biotope. Another example is the African lake biotope where pH should be higher than in general aquarium for best African cichlids development. That's why we recommend to use substrates suitable for natural habitat we want to reflect because the substrate has a great impact on water parameters.
A regular water change is an activity that is closely related to several other activities that keep the tank clean. We do weekly water changes in order to impove water parameters, partially remove dirty tank water and replace it with the new water and remove derbis of plants or fish. Before we proceed to it, appropriate tests should be performed to determine the condition of the fish tank. If there are no problems with algae in the aquarium, it is enough to measure the pH, KH and GH. However, if we have a problem with an excessive amount of algae, PO4, NO3, and Fe should be additionally measured.
The water change itself is not only about draining the water and refilling it. Before we start it, the aquarium glass should have deep cleaning of algae. Algae that float in the aquarium water after such an operation will be partially removed with the water poured from the aquarium.
Another caring activity performed during the water change is taking out the silt from the bottom . During it, you should suck up silt, faeces and plant debris lying on the bottom. In the case of substrates for plants or shrimps, a small diameter hose (9-12 or 12-16 mm) will work well, which, when draining the tank water, must be waved vigorously over the bottom, which will cause the dirt on the bottom to stick in and be sucked in by the hose.
In aquariums with a large number of plants, they are trimmed during the water change, i.e. they are shortened and shaped (find more about how to trim plants properly HERE). Plant fragments floating in the water should be sucked out during the water change.
If we use tap water for water changes, it is very likely that the evaporating water leaves a sediment of calcium and magnesium on aquarium glass on the border of the water surface, i.e. the so-called scale. During the water change, it can be initially mechanically removed with a razor blade and then wiped with a paper towel soaked in vinegar, which perfectly removes the tarnish.
In the case of large aquariums, the water change can be facilitated by using a garden hose to drain the water, which can be used to pour the tank water into the nearest toilet or sink, for example. With the same hose, the new water can be poured into the aquarium, if it is connected to the place of the shower head or to the tap after using the appropriate adapter.
Developing a habit of regular water changes will help you to deal with many problems and improve the condition of fish, plants and aquarium water quality. Together with replacing tank water you also remove contamination existing in the aquarium water, e.g. fish waste and support the filtration at the same time. If you want to learn more about filtration and filter media in aquariums, we are happy to present you our Guide to filtration in the aquarium.
The specimens grafted onto the roots should be regularly trimmed once every 1-2 weeks to keep them miniature in size.